Monaliadth: Pleased to be Able to Help …
Sometimes, it is nice to feel useful. Actually it’s always good to feel useful. But let’s levee besides these psycho ramblings.
Had an email from the John Muir Trust this week asking if they can use some of my Monaliadth photos in their up an coming campaign work. You’ll probably be aware of the problems looking here with wall-to-wall wind turbines and so on.
I’ll be taking another look at these over the next few days as I sort out the best ones. I’ll also write an essay on these wonderful mountains I think. Your feelings for, and memories of, this great upland area would be welcome as well.
Trek the Andes Blog …
Funny this blogging game. Jut when I’m thinking that it might be worth given it all up somebody comes along with a piece of flattery which lifts the spirits! This time it is Mark Smith who has written:
… I would like to say thanks for all the good reading and listening I have enjoyed for the last few years from your blog and podcasts. I am British but have lived out in Peru for the last 7 years so you can get a bit cut off from things at times so your musings have helped me keep in touch and mean I am able to skip around the local mountains nice and lightly with things like my Duomid that I would never have heard about otherwise.
Mark has recently begun a blog on trekking in the Andes:
I am aiming for a mixture of really good walk information such as walkhighlands, but put in a more pleasing to the eye format with lots of tales of trekking, backpacking and life of the mountain people. We have so many wonderful walks here which just never get done because people do not know about them and all that gets broadcast is inca trail, plus a few others. I would like to see people trekking other routes, for them to realise that backpacking is very possible here and also give a whole selection of day walks or couple of hour walks that people can just do themselves when here.
I notice that when overseas walking is discussed on the majority of lightweight or general walking blogs, it is mainly Pyrenees,Alps, GR20 and the States and I thought there might be people out there who would love to come trekking in the Andes but had just never thought of it.
Bad Gear? Is There Such a Thing?
Earlier today I realised that I haven’t yet posted a proper blog this year so I thought I’d better get on with it in case any of you have missed me! It’s time, I think, for a bit of a philosophical ramble!
A couple of weeks ago I found myself reading a piece from a fellow blogger that asked the question as to whether there was bad gear. His argument seemed to be that there wasn’t (I go into this below) but many of the comments seemed to agree with me that, sadly, there is.
And this got me thinking …
Review: The Wild Coast by John Gimlette
John Gimlette is a new name to me; I have Amazon’s recommendation system for discovering him. ‘The Wild Coast’ is one of those wonderful travel books that makes its focus on of the globe’s backwaters.
‘The Wild Coast’ is the story of travels in Guiana — the Land of Many Waters — named by local Amerindians. Guiana has 900 miles of muddy coastline and no natural ports. 80% of the land is covered by rainforest. According to Gimlette “… nowhere in South America is quite like it”.
Today Guiana,as a result of Colonialism is three different but connected territories: the ex-British colony of Guyana; the ex Dutch colony of Suriname; and French Guiana which is still part of France — Guiana still has members sitting in the French National Assembly.
Gimlette travels around each of the territories, through the fading colonial capitals and the marginal towns and cities on the edge of forests. He takes trips into the jungle and revisits a whole series of past projects aimed at levering, largely, mythical riches.
As an explorer and a writer gimlet serves us well. He is historical briefing is fascinating without getting in the way of the story. The people he meets along the way – who provide hospitality and who look after him on his travels — are affectionately remembered.
Guiana may be a backwater but, as an explorer, Gimlette was following is the footsteps of a number of illustrious predecessors, including Walter Raleigh, Evelyn Waugh and V.S. Naipaul. We learn much from the lives and experiences of these explorers.
The towns seem like almost any you can come across in South America, except more marginal. The forest — at times — has an almost ‘Heart of Darkness’ feel to it. And you might not be surprised that this marginalised country throws up all kinds of fascinating stories. Here are modern dictators, the cult of Jim Jones and the Jonestown Massacre, the true story (perhaps) of Herni Charriere — or Papillon — of Devil’s Island (who seems to have been a model prisoner). El Dorado is here – yet it really is — as are many household names who come from these nations, inlcuding politicians Bernie Grant and Trevor Philips, musician Eddy Grant and football superstar Ruud Gullit.
Above all this is a story of settlement and revolution, tribal wars fermented by western powers dashed hopes and dreams and of the strange, often twilight worlds, that have been left by the differing colonial powers. Each of the three territories is, of course, very similar but we do get a fascinating feel here of how each of the three powers, the British, the Dutch and the French, have created a new framework for the land they influenced.
There seems to be little hope here for dramatic growth or an economic miracle, anther these are nations that look to have a future much dependent on foreign aid. As a result I guess most of us will have few opportunities, or fewer reasons, to visit here. Yet Gimlette’s book is enlightening in all kinds of ways.
The best kinds of travel books are a wonderful mixture of travelogue, historical account, mythical tales and fascinating encounters. You will find all of these in the Wild Coast.
Gimlette proves that there is life yet in the travel genre. A very good read.
Challenge Preparation for First Timers: Challenger Spotting
At some point, early on my first TGO Challenge, I had slightly disorientating encounter. If you are preparing for your first Challenge this is an experience you will almost certainly to sharing shortly.
I was approached by a man — obviously a hiker — of a certain age. He was dressed in “full Paramo” and carrying a rucksack that was almost bigger than my house. He was waving a waterproof folder in his hand and brandishing a pen. He greeted me”
“wasyurnumba?”
“Pardon?
“wasyurnumba?”
“Sorry, what did you want?”
“WASYURNUMBA?”
It then suddenly dawned on me. He was asking for my number. Computing all of this quickly I realised he meant my TGO Number. This is the number that you are allocated when you get a place, and the number you use when phoning in to Challenge Control. I duly gave him my number. He appeared appreciative and hunted in the folder.
He brandished a copy of the the TGO Participant list, searched down the columns, made a tick and then gave me a big smile. Andy Howell. Birmingham he grinned.
I’d been spotted. Of course, there are ‘spotters’ everywhere and I suppose one of the problems with the Challenge is that there are few opportunities for train spotting, although I’m sure the high level route through Corrour Station is a popular route ‘spot’.
By now you will beginning to realise that there is — how can we say diplomatically — a certain eccentricity about your fellow Challengers. A few weeks studying of the Challenge Notice Board will now doubt have left you feeling a little intimidated. So, take this as a warning and be prepared!
Nothing can quite prepare you for that first encounter with Challenge kind.
Most likely you will meet them at Glasgow Queen Street. (You may also meet them at Inverness Bus Station but their numbers will be suitably diluted).
The foyer of Glasgow Queen Street will be heaving with walkers. Ruscksacks will take over every conceivable bit of public space. Ordinary commuters will be looking stunned and shocked. The Challengers will be dancing around and shouting for joy as they meet long lost friends. It is an odd thing this. They will appear to have known each other for years, and many of them will have — even though they only meet once a year.
It is difficult to know what advice to give you about etiquette on this occasion, other than possibly make sure you don’t get crushed in the rush for the train. I suppose you could always put on a smile and just ask individuals for their number. But that might be a tad extreme.
But it gets worse. Once you get on the train.
The train North from Glasgow is a little train which splits so that half of it goes on the line to Mallaig and half to Oban. By the time the train pulls out spirits are really high and the adrenalin is really pumping. People can’t sit in their seats for longer than a minute or two. Conversations are going on all over the place. Enquiries are made about fellow Challengers and you’ll no doubt recognise one or two names in the middle of all this.
You could just join in with the mayhem, though admittedly this is hard (and not for the faint hearted). It might be easy to just sit their, enjoy the stunning scenery and go with the flow. It is a little easier to start getting to know people at the start location as they are generally in smaller groups and have begun to calm down a bit.
From then on it is all plain sailing. You only have to worry about little things, like falling into a bog or slipping off the side of a mountain.
But – during the first few days — why not play a ‘spotting game’ yourself? Here’s a short introductory guide.
The Trim Beard
This Challenger is pretty ubiquitous and a very social beast and you’ll encounter him by the time you get to Braemar if not before. His beard will be immaculate and his clothing garb neatly chosen; he will hardly look as if he will has been trudging through bog for a week. His name will be Sloman. Basically, this is a harmless creature but you should take some extra care when near a hostelry.
Spot value = 5 points.
The Northern Trim Beard
Sometimes confused with the standard Trim Beard. The Northern version has a more local accent and often wears specs. He too is an exceptionally social animal and is often to be seen dispensing pastural care. Responds well to the call of “Morning Vicar”. This is the Rev. David Alban.
Spot Value = 5 points.
The JJ
A very unassuming character and another very sociable beast. The JJ was the first Challenger that I met. There’s nothing really to fear here but just beware that he is likely to burst into song or poetry at any time – and he will insist that you join in. Goes by the name of John.
Spot Value = 5 points.
The Cashmere Sweater
This is a walker who always wears a stylish, light blue, cashmere sweater. The sweater is easily identified by discreetly placed ventilation holes. This Challenger can be difficult to understand and confusing if encountered more than once, as it adopts multiple personalities. Sometimes known as Humphrey. You may not meet Humphrey, but you will hear a lot about him. This could be a very valuable spot as he is currently well down the standby list. We may not see him, but somehow I think we might.
Spot Value (could be difficult) = 20 points.
Lilo Lil
This one is very difficult on account of it’s ability to completely change appearance every year or so. You will probably recognise him when he identifies himself as ‘Lilo’. Yes, do ask why he is called that !!!
Spot Value = 15 points
The Pidgeon
Best spotted during the morning. My last ‘spot’ was on the road to Braemar. The Pidgeon was walking in crocs and appeared to be pregnant. Closer inspection showed that his waterproof was stuffed full of cans of some kind of strong brew. One other clue to this being the Pidgeon will be the bottle of single malt sitting in his pack pocket. If encountered in the morning the Pidgeon will have you crying with laughter.
Spot Value = 5 points. 5 bonus points are available if you can ascertain his previous occupation in life.
The Cartwright
This beast is even smarter than the trim beard. His hiking gear is effectively colour co-ordinated. There is no danger in the Cartwright but you may find yourself being forced to sit through endless gear demonstrations if you linger too long. His rucksack is like a tardis. The Cartwight might be a very good spot this year as he didn’t enter. But there is some talk about him appearing in a van somewhere en route.
Spot Value = 30 points
The L & T Combination
This is, in fact, two spots. This is Lee and Tony although increasingly they seem to be morphing into one personality. You can spot them during the evening — there will be two light grey American Tents. You can spot them in hostelries on account of them only drinking black beer with a frothy top.
Spot Value = 5 points
The M & G Combination
Very different to the above combination on account of one being of the female species. However, the female is easily to spot as she will be brandishing graphs and charts and spreadsheet print outs to all who make the mistake of feigning interest. M is a calm and laid back Challenger who will cause no problems. G is a little OCD in behaviour terms, but nevertheless reasonably sociable.
Spot Value = 5 points
The Egg
Another member of the female species. The Egg sounds a bit posher than many of us. But don’t let that put you off as she is great value for money. The Egg has lived a life of amazing and daring adventures. This accounts for the split spot value.
Spot Value = 5 points
Plus 2 bonus points for every adventure story you can coax out of her.
Little Sam
I know this is Dicken’s anniversary, but this is nothing to do with that. Sam can easily be recognised by some key characteristics. Can down amazing amounts of alcohol during the evening but will be up and out before anyone else next morning. Walks long and hard. Not quite as common a sight on the Challenge these days but sure to be around this year. Might be having a crisis if the Hungry Highlander in Braemar has not re-opened.
Spot Value = 10 points.
The Liddle (no not the Supermarket)
A Challenger of the female variety. Might confuse you as she seems to live en route — you might think she has taken a wrong turn somewhere and not stopped walking. But fun and good company.
Spot Value = 5 points
The Lawman
An interesting spot this as the lawman has probably the most weird route. It seems to involve taking a sleeper to London and then returning the next night. Surely, the sending of a food parcel would have been an easier re-supply tactic?
Spot Value = 5 points
…. and finally
The rare CT
This is a very challenging spot. Nothing to be frightened of in terms of behaviour but incredibly difficult to spot on account of taking routes that are high, wide and lonely. Can go on about different types of stoves for a long time. Very knowledgeable on water proofs. A spot at the Challenge Dinner does not count.
Spot Value = 20 points.
That should do you. Let me know if you need more Challengers to put on your spot card. I may not have upset enough yet !!!
If you are ‘experiences’ feel free to share your favourite spots!
TGO Planning: Those Little Treats …
I’m pleased to see that a number of first time Challengers are planing to take full advantage of wild camping as they cross from coast to coast. When you are caught up in the whirlwind of route planning and equipment buying it’s easy to forget the simple things that make a trip bearable — little treats!
Those of us who are used to wild camping find it easy to wax lyrical about the wonder of the experience. Imagine. You make camp towards the end of the afternoon. The sun is beginning to soften and drop down towards the horizon, but the air is still warm and pleasant. You find a lovely spot next to, say, the Findhorn River. The light ripples on the water. The heathery hills above are dappled in soft light. Birds sing. Deer gracefully make their way across the skyline. You pitch your tent and then rest your weary feet, dangling them in the cool water as you sit on a soft and grassy bank ….
Or. The tent is up in a flash as all hell breaks loose around you. You struggle, inside the vestibule, to light a stove to get a hot drink on to combat the freezing cold. Rain lashes down on the flysheet. Gale force winds batter the tent poles. You struggle around like a poor demented soul, getting out of those wet clothes and finding something that is still warm and hopefully not too smelly.
Both of these alternatives are possible. But some times — like last year – the first seems like pure fantasy.
At times like this luxury is key. So don’t skimp. Here are some ideas.
That Old Termperance Magic …
For some a nip of the hard stuff before bed is just the ticket. Now, I have partaken in this pastime of course. The only decent night on last year’s crossing was spent with the Cartwrights and Humphrey Weightman deep in the Fetteresso Forest. There was sun. We stopped early. And we lazed in our tents not being able to believe the warmth. And later Bob came around and freely distributed his single malt.
But generally I don’t do alcohol while walking. But that old Quaker alternative has real merit here.
Firstly, Drinking Chocolate. Nectar. I’ve only recently gone on to this but I can tell you that at the end of a hard day’s walk it beats tea or coffee hands down.
There lots of expensive chocolate products now available in little tubes. But for a real treat go and buy a jar of luxurious, Fair Trade type stuff. I decant this into small freezer bags and place it in my food drop parcels. That way I can keep going through the whole trip and even have it as a hot drink in the middle of the day if it is really miserable.
A bar of chocolate at the end of the day is bliss. I know there’s a place for all of this healthy stuff but a bar and Fruit and Nut as you prepare to doze has no competition.
Breakfast Blues
Most of us make use of that magical stuff porridge, a super food that slowly discharges into the system. It is the stuff that armies and Challengers march out. But after a week of porridge you may be feeling, well, a little fed-up.
I always pre mix my porridge with dried milk. That makes it a bit better, but after a few days I hate that as well.
The trick is to ‘pimp up your porridge’.
Dried fruit works well. I dehydrate fruit before hand and always add a handful to the white stuff. You can, of course, buy the stuff as well. But after a week you might want to forget health and go for struct comfort.
Jam is what we are talking about. Decant some into one of those useless little plastic bottles you can get in all walking shops. Or, if in a B & B nick some of those catering packs. Or if you see blister packs locally buy a few and sling them in your food drop.
Sweetness. Not to be under-estimated.
A Real Breakfast
There will no doubt be times when you can take advantage of one of these. Go for it. The Old Bakery in Braemar is especially welcome, indeed the thought of a late breakfast here can keep you going for three or four days.
Most CHallengers heading for Braemar will have stopped near the Linn of Dee or Derry Lodge the night before. AN early start will see you at the Old Bakery quite early on. It will be a sign of your new fitness that this short hop actually measures out at about 12 miles!
Oh, the pleasure of those sausages, black pudding and even — the old haggis!
You will have your own luxury fettishes. Don’t ignore them. Plan to spoil yourself. If the weather is anything like last year they will provide you with the highlight of the day, day after day.
What are your favourite trail treats?
Photo Project: Mountain Landscapes and People
In the discussion to my previous post on mountain photography Hannes raised a couple of good points. Firstly, he talked about how clouds add character and (I guess) texture to a photo and he is right about that. And secondly, he raised the use of people in mountain landscapes to give a greater idea of scale.
When I produced that post I thought about including people but then reckoned that it would make the post too long. But Hannes is right, the inclusion of people does help with scale. It also adds other interest as well.
The late, great, travel writer Bruce Chatwin was also a fabulous photographer. He always reckoned that landscape had little interest to him on his own; places and landscapes were made by the people in them. I maybe paraphrasing him a little but that was the gist of what he was talking about. It’d an interesting point of view.
Memories of many great mountain walks and treks often revolve around the people you meet along the trail. Certainly, if I look at my trail journals and online diaries (such as those here of the Challenge) I can clearly see that many days are marked by a conversation or a chance encounter. These can be reflected in photographs.
Here are a couple of photos taken during a glorious summer day on the Brecon Beacons, one without figures and one with.
Without …
… with!
The Ordessa Canyon in the High Pyrenees. Like many other stunning mountain landscapes it is difficult to really capture the scale of this place, but I think the cattle help somehow!
As I got closer to the canyon wall it became all but impossible to capture the scale of it. But the snap of these two walkers seems to give an interesting sense of scale and expectation.
This wouldn’t be much of a shot without the walker, but somehow with one it tells you a lot.”
Phil again, completing the size of it all …
Yep, people have their place Hannes, you are right!
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