Oops, Damn and Drat!

I knew it was tempting fate to write a post on dementia! Yesterdays stroll on the hills became a celebration of forgetfulness!

I started with the best of intentions. On Monday evening I (unusually for me) got all of my kit ready in advance and I made sure that the pack was packed. Yesterday morning I was up and ready for an early start.

Mishap one occurred when I jumped on my connecting train at Shrewsbury. The Conductor looked at my ticket, smiled and told me that this train didn’t stop and my destination, Church Stretton. I would have to carry on until Ludlow. He consulted in machine. If I crossed over the bridge at Ludlow and waited 10 minutes I could catch the train back in the opposite direction. This train did stop at Church Stretton. And — with a real flourish — he announced that this train would get me to be desired destination a full twenty minutes before the real train from Shrewsbury would have done! Result.

The Conductor had been a little concerned that his counterpart on the return train wouldn’t be so accommodating, so he wrote out a special chit thing explaining what had happened. But, on the return train, the Conductor just laughed. It’s a nice day for a trip she said. And she was right. As the train sped along the sun was breaking through the cloud cover, a lovely gentle winter sun that softly illuminated all of the autumnal colours that sat over the hills.

One of the nice things about these local hills is that I know them like the back of my hand. I seldom need a map and on shorter, winter, days I rarely have any idea where I’m going to go in advance. So, on the short journey from Ludlow I changed my ideas about the day’s walk for about the fifth time since I left Birmingham.

Safely in Church Stretton I ambled up to Mr Bun the Bakers and bought some lunch and then ambled down the road towards Little Stretton. There’s a lovely pub here — the Ragleth Arms that has a very simple but beautiful facade. I’ve tried to capture this before with a camera but somehow or another have never been able to. As I approached this time the conditions seem to be right. The pub is covered in mature Ivy, the door solid old oak and the pub sign above the door is a lovely traditional design. I framed the image to just catch these features. The early morning sun was bouncing off the ivy leaves and saturating the colours in the sign. I clicked the shutter without really looking at the camera settings. Looking at the camera I realised I’d shot at something around 1/20th. I went to review the image (for camera shake) on the back of the machine only to be told ‘No Memory Card’. Hmm, I’d checked the night before I could have sworn that I had seen one. Never mind, I hunted in my small camera back. I always have four or five cards with me. But today there was none. Then I remembered that my last photographic assignment had been the kind that required all of my kit. All of my memory cards were still sitting inside the many pockets of a Billingham photography bag!

So, no photos then. I continued along a few tiny lanes and climbed over a stile, walked through the deserted campsite and headed towards the Long Mynd. At a small bridge over the Ashes Hollow stream I stopped to assemble my walking poles. But there were only five sections of pole in my sack rather than the six required. Pacer Poles don’t really work singularly , so Poles were out for the day. Never mind, sometimes it is nice to be walking without them.

I walked more slowly without the poles, but used the time well. I spent more time considering the surroundings and looking for potential wild camp sites and, indeed, I did identify a number of sites that I’ve never really taken in before.

Ashes Hollow is one of the quieter climbs up to the Mynd — they get quieter as you move South from Church Stretton. It was a quiet day in many ways not least that there were few sounds. There were no people about and most of the bird life has left for the winter. There was no wind and no wind sound. As I climbed up the Mynd my only companion was the sound of the stream flowing briskly down the hill.

The only sense that was properly stimulated was smell. There’s a musky kind of smell that dominates much of the UK’s walking habitat during the winter, as the fall foliage begins to rot.

Weekday walking is usually lonely walking around this parts. At the beginning of the climb I did come across a geography class doing some serious field work. How times have changed. Nothing like this happened in my day. All I can remember about my O level geography lessons was a teacher who verged between going mad because he couldn’t control the class or feigning complete indifference to our chosen way of spending time with him, which usually involved throwing increasingly high items at each other. This group seemed completely engaged in their studies.

My only other human contact was with a couple who were descending as I was climbing. They were in their late sixties, perhaps even early seventies, I guess. Their trip was one of a number they were making in an attempt to find a place to finally retire to. Church Stretton they liked because it hadn’t changed that much since they had last visited the area about 8 years ago. I assumed that they were pleased that the area hadn’t got too yuppy-ish but there concerns were more contemporary than that. What they meant that there was a good health practice in the town, it was near to a general hospital and — most importantly — that there was still an active library and community hub present. These were obviously a couple who had access to all modern comms services but they recognised that libraries are key to rural life. The library in Church Stretton is the home to the local film club that shows current releases, the base for local historical societies and more besides. Across the countries library services are being subjected to swinging cuts, because their provision isn’t statutory. It is quite a salient reminder that incomers see libraries in their wider sense. A town without a library is not quite the same as one which has.

Up on the ridge the mist had rolled in and I was walking in the worst visibility I have experienced this year, certainly since last winter. I strode on up to Poll Bank. The views from the bank are often stunning and you gaze west towards mystical mid Wales; on a clear day you can see all of the way to Cadir Idris on the southern edge of Snowdonia. But, while the views are stunning, you often find yourself in anything but a lonely spot as you have to share the experience with mountain bikers, hill runners and — worst of all — huge parties of Ramblers. But today there was just me. And the mist.

Walking in the mist can be quite cathartic. I set out to walk north, covering almost the full length of the ridge. In such misty conditions I was able to set my mind to dealing with a current dilemma. My TGO CHallenge route for 2012 (or whenever I next get in) as more or less been fixed now. I shall be starting in Torridon, cutting through Struy, over to the Monaliadth and Kincraig, and on to Balleter via. Ben Avon (no Braemar on this trip) and then finishing somewhere near Stonehaven via the Fetteresso. Some of my days are long but not overwhelmingly so and I’ve walked through nearly all of this territory before one way or another. But the route is too fast. It has me arriving in Ballater a day too early and sees me finish in Stonehaven on Tuesday. So, I need to eek out another day or two. This give me the chance to take in more hills and to take advantage of a short day or two. But planning such changes is not that easy as the days, particularly in the North West, finish at obvious finish points. But the walk in the mist weaved its magic and by the time I had finished I had more or less come up with four or five new variants that can be explored on computer mapping systems.

As the Mynd begins to fade out heather uplands and bridleways give way to wide, grassy paths that gently take the walker down towards the village of All Stretton. Dropping out of the clouds I saw an wonderfully soft winter light warming the hills of Caradoc, picking out all of the reds, yellows and golds of autumn. Caradoc had been my original destination but it would have no doubt been in just as much mist as the Mynd. As I walked back along the road to the train station I was able to take a long, lingering look at this fabulous ridge.

It wasn’t the longest of walks but a decent one for these shorter, winter, days. Walking during the week is not easy for very one I know but it allows the walker to take back those popular places that heave with visitors at the weekend. The National Trust Car Parks are empty, there’s no manic dodging of speeding mountain bikes needed and no great parties of Duke of Edinburgh students to encounter. It was just me, the hills and the mist. Just the right conditions for envisaging longer routes and longer days.

 

Return To the Sheep’s Head

It might have just been laziness that saw me pitch up again on the Sheep’s Head Peninsula for a walk around some of west Cork’s most spectacular coastline. But that might be being too hard on myself. This is not a part of the world where it is easy to set out on a rugged ten mile plus walk. The other, reasonably, local option would have been the Knockboy hill but heavy rain reminded me of the plentiful bog that is to be enjoyed on that walk.

Sheep s Head Stone Circle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A new stone circle on the Sheep’s Head

I always use the Sheep Head’s walk that can be found in Paddy Dillon’s Coastal Walks in Ireland. The second half of this walk, in particular, is quite wild and — when the winds are blowing a hoolie — dramatic and refreshing. The walk takes you past a series of small, deserted, settlements, many of which were associated with copper mining as well as jut farming.

This part of Ireland was badly hit by the potato famine and it depopulated quickly. The nearby port of Baltimore was a point of departure as emigrant sought both refuge and adventure in the New World. Over recent years new money has seen some stunning new builds and renovations on this coastline but the crash and the recession has dealt local people another cruel hand and emigration is once again a curse on this land.

In both national and international press the return of the Irish economy is heralded by financiers, management consultants and the bankers that caused many of our problems. But for most ordinary people the return is illusory. While I was there the government lowered its growth targets for the next three years, local radio kept up an almost daily catalogue of job losses and company closures. This rural population are certainly feeling the strain. For the majority the recovery will be prolonged and painful.

The further development of tourism is one of the Irish government’s top priorities and there are some signs that the power of the walker’s euro is at last being recognised. In the two years since I was last here there seem to had been a growth in local books of headland walks and walking festivals now join music, storytelling and food festivals.

But this wonderful land remains far too inaccessible. The coastline offers the opportunity to create a superb coastal walk that is every bit the equal of the West Coast Coastal Path. Such a long distance route would probably be a better walk than the Cornwall and Devon walks as many of the villages and beaches remind me of Cornwall forty years or so ago. This is a land of not only the warm welcome but pure charm.

Landowners — as ever — are the problem here. There is no grab tradition of hillwalking and farmers can be fearsome. Sadly. I have to report that the local sport of barbed wire fence building is as healthy as ever. For many walkers are natters — usually German or Dutch young people (who are the only people who seems to have the patience to explore the public transport system …)

Local tourist authorities and councils seem to be waking up to the need to exploit the environment for walkers and cyclists. But some kind of central government initiative to support the development of long distance trails is clearly needed.

Tourism is one of the two main planks for restoring the economy, yet there is a problem here. Ireland is currently expensive. Alcohol here is the most expensive in the EU and eating out is also a strain on the wallet. Yet holiday makers can still buy reasonably priced food from local shops and farmers selling direct. There is currently a marked absence of USA visitors which is likely to continue for a while as the US goes into a double-dip recession. If tourism is to make a solid contribution to development in rural areas then  it seems to me that green tourism and adventure tourism have a lot to give.

Ireland’s elite landowners have bled the country dry. It is now time for the arms to be bent or for them to see the advantages of opening up this lovely countryside.

A ropily developed Irish South West Coastal Path? Now, that would be a great walk. We know from here in the UK that our long distance walks contribute millions each year to local communities and it is local communities here in Ireland that need help the most.

If anyone from the Government stumbles on this, go on and get cracking. Your communities and tourist authorities need more help!

Wild Coastline

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timoleague

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timoleague Creek

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Estuary Birds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timoleague

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disterted Copper Mine Settlement

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Wild and Gentle Scenes from a future Irish South West Coastal Path?

Solo Days, Silent Night

The best backpacking trips are long ones, a week or two makes the most of the experience and longer is better still. But there are times when the humble overnighter can be just as welcome, especially when the days are busy and stressful and a small window for escape needs to grasped decisively.

For me an overnighter has to be near to home and although that rules out mountain areas it means that I can explore the best of the English Hills. These hill trips don’t have to be inferior. The English landscape is a great place to be strolling around in spring, summer or autumn. On Thursday and Friday I walked though gorgeous hamlets, a stone cottages and rose gardens in full bloom. Lettuce, cabbages, carrots, peas and beans adorned the vegetable patches. Walking high opened up amazing views over lush, green and patchwork fields. On the tops and high ridges ponies grazed on high grass and I walked on through heather with the most amazing aromas.

I began walking at around two in the afternoon an itinerary designed to see me arrive at my wild camp site at around eight when the day’s leisure walkers would have been sure to have headed down to the pub, tent or caravan.

Rain had been forecast but the only precipitation I saw was in Wolverhampton, and that from the safety of the train carriage. Under foot a strong sun dodged wispy cloud frequently enough to give the walker few problems. Walking through farmland I surprised two walkers when I hopped over a stile. They had been walking all day I up to that point hadn’t seen a sole.

Ponies on the Secret Hills.

Ponies Grazing on the Secret Hills
1/125, f11, ISO 100 @ 40mm. Aperture priority.

Phonebox in the middle of nowhere!

This phonebox is in the middle of nowhere, which is how it has survived I guess! I know I’ve photographed it before :-)
1/125, f8, ISO 50 @ 35mm. Aperture priority -1 stop.

I approached the Long Mynd from its most southerly boundary. The afternoon’s shadows were growing longer, the skies clearer. Mostly I was alone except for the odd mountain bike that suddenly emerged over a rise only to dash of down some different track. At the gliding club tents a few tents were being erected in anticipation for a weekend on the wing.

South Shropshire's Rolling Hills

Looking towards Caradoc
1/125, f22, ISO 50 @ 40 mm. Aperture priority.

A Pole Bank I took a snack rest. The early evening rays of sun were cutting through cloud like lasers. Over the distance the familiar outline of Cadir Idris looked so sharp that I felt I could reach out and pick it up. Snowdonia was beckoning, perhaps, next time for a weekender.

Dropping down to the campsite all was quiet and the tarp quickly fixed in place on a large and soft expanse of grass. A few late hill runners stopped for a chat and to puzzle at the lunacy of a man who spend the night under such a flimsy piece of cuben fibre.

And the I was alone with just a meal to eat and the hills to observe as the last of the evening sun dropped away. Nightfall ushered in something quite unusual in these parts, complete silence. Even the stream — a mere couple of yards away — was running so gently that from the tarp it made no sound at all. There were no cars on road, planes in the sky or dogs howling in the distance. Just pure silence.

Dawn was pure joy. The bird’s chorus was tuneful and joyous. Early morning sun was picking out he colours of the heather and the bracken on the hillside opposite. One of the best things about the trips, for me, is to rise with the dawn without a watch to impose its order on things.

So, I wasn’t sure what time it was when I started but even with a casual start to proceedings I guess it was still quite early. I climbed back up to the Long Mynd. There were no cars and no people, just a few ponies chomping on a grassy breakfast.

Long Mynd Balloon.

Early morning company!
1/180, f11, ISO 100 @ 40mm. Aperture priority.

The air was warm and the sun soothing rather than scorching. Just as I began to wonder how long it would be before I met another human I turned a corner to be confronted by a hot air ballon launching itself up on the early morning thermals. The ballon wasn’t alone. Around the next bend a couple of red kites soared and dips on the same rising air, mating season perhaps?

Dropping down on the other side of the ridge I walked through still quiet farms. Turning to Adstone Hill I was greeted enthusiastically by three sheep dogs out for a morning constitutional, their farmer owner laughing “they are not used to seeing anyone up here at this time in the morning”

Early Morning on Adstone Hill

Early morning on Adstone Hill and all is well with the world!
1/20, f22, ISO 50 @ 24mm. Aperture priority.

Quiet lanes, still dressed with the last summer blooms took me on my way to the Stipperstone ridge. Dramatic limestone structures pepper the ridge and provide the perfect vantage point from which to study the Welsh border country. Cadir Idris still shone on the horizon but more gently now in the early morning sunshine. Down at the car park the early visitors were making their way up to pay their respects to the ridge.

By the time I had returned to Bridges it was clear that the day was to be, what the tabloids call, “A real scorcher”. There were no wispy clouds now, just an aquamarine sky and a sun that demanded loads of sun block.

At Bridges a team was hard at work gutting the Horseshoes pub. Regular readers will now all about this disaster, a pub in the most amazing of locations which was destroyed by a landlord who didn’t just not understand ramblers but actively chased them away. Over the lat ten years or so I’ve watched as this lunatic slowly destroyed what should have been a great business. I stopped and chatted to the site supervisor. The pub is being renovated by the rather wonderful Three Tons Brewery that is based in nearby Bishops Castle. The horrible smoker’s shelters have gone and the pub’s garish whitewashed walks have been stripped back to the stone I remember from years gone by. Everything in the place looks as if it being replaced and — when it comes to the Three Tons — you can have the confidence of knowing that it will be for the better. I left determined to visit the place later in the summer or autumn.

Now it was hot, almost to hot for walking in England. Go backpacking in a proper hot part of the world and you prepare for it. Days are often shorter and routes planned to allow a proper rest at the hottest part of the day. Of civilisation beckons mid afternoon can often be found in the shelter of some cafe, bar or mountain refuge. Here on the Mynd there was is such shelter and to be honest it was too hot to be walking.

The Carding Mill Valley was thronging with teenagers on end-of-year field trips. Young women had dressed-up for the day though not for the hill. Their footwear of choice seemed to be paisley decorated wellies. Scouse and Walsall accents battled for supremacy, the girls voices all full excitement while the lads only seemed capable of words of one syllable.

The school trip is another fixture of the English summer. Even the National Trust shop was prepared. Next to the entrance to the toilets was a large temporary toilet block that somehow had avoided the summer festival circuit. A large notice announced “for schools only” which I thought was a lovely way of telling the kids to keep out of the shop’s loos!

Boy had it been hot. I was as caked in as much seat as I would have been after a day in the Alps or the Pyrenees. It was so hot two tubs of the local farmer’s ice cream was called for.

The good thing about walking from dawn is that even a longish day ends early and I was home in time to see Nadal crush Murray again. Some things never seem to change.

So, don’t ever dismiss the overnighter. Even in deepest England it can offer you more than you ever expected.

 

TGO Challengers: Here, There and Everywhere

It always amazes me what a relaxing effect a big walk — or the prospect of a big walk — can have on me.

I awoke on Friday in a happy frame of mind, so much so that I felt free to watch a little of the madness being broadcast from London on the News Channels. Nope, it didn’t annoy me; I was going for a walk you know!

The train flashed through Shropshire and in Wales before dodging up to Chester and running along the North Wales coast. Every now and then a house with an amazing display of bunting came into view. At Chester two train drivers sat opposite on their way home from their shifts, happily comparing notes on the most outrageously kitted-out houses on route. Even in Welsh Wales it seems British patriotism is not dead.

In my mind by far the best way of entering the mountains of Snowdonia is by foot from the North Coast. I’ve described a couple of trips like this before but this time it was such a nice day that an amble along the seafront seemed in order.

From Llanfairfechan we strolled West alongside salt marshes, bird reserves and crumbling ancient sea defences. We headed inland to Abergwyngregyn a small village beautifully lit by the late afternoon sun. We stopped at the caffe and information shop for tea and home made ice cream. Then it was up to Aber Falls.

Menai

Menai at low tide

Salt Marsh

Salt Marsh

Aber Falls are probably the most spectacular water falls in North Wales and their fame is helped by the fact that they are easily accessible. Not too easily though, even those wedded to the car will have to get out and walk a mile or so, something that seems very right somehow.

Climbing towards the falls we were soon presented with route option, an easy stroll the base of the falls or a climb high above. It was the high climb we wanted as our aim was to camp in Cwm yr Afron Goch, above the falls. The footpath took us through dense woodland which gave welcome relief from the unseasonal April sun, which even in early evening was a bit too strong. The floor of the woodland was carpeted in bluebells, a display which would have been amazing last weekend but which was still holing its own.

Bluebell Wood Above Aber Falls

Aber Bluebell Carpet

Emerging from the woods the magnificence of the falls down below was revealed. Our track took us over a slightly tricky wall of scree where the occasional use of hands gave the walk a nice tinge of excitement.

As the Cwm begins to flatten our there are a few decent flat pieces of grass on which to camp and we settled down just short of an ancient stone sheep pen. Up went the tent without any mishaps — this was a TGO last minute rehearsal — and soon the evening meal was bubbling away on a Caldera Cone. It was a lovely evening. During the night the wind got up and gave the tent such a buffeting that it was pretty difficult to sleep!

Carneddau Wildcamp

Wildcamp above the falls

Morning was just as delightful as the evening and we were able to take down the tent and re-pack at a leisurely pace. A surprisingly good path winds its way up the Cwm, a path that is not indicated on the 1:25K maps and eventually the path must have connected with the main route up to Foel Grach. But this was TGO preparation and we left the path for a bit of wild heather bashing.

Cwym yr Afron Goch

Cwym y Afron Goch

From our campsite our route took us West climbing up and over one valley before climbing high again towards the main North Easterly path into the mountains. The views were magnificent. For a long time we kept the azure blues of the Menai Straits in our sites, supplemented by an ever expanding mountain panorama.

We cut between Drogsi and a small hill named (as ever in these parts) a ‘Pile of Stones’. Although not far from civilisation this is wild land with only the most basic of paths occasionally picked out in the heather and grass. Carneddau ponies were feasting on high pasture.

Carneddau Pony

A Pile of Stones

Towards the pile of stones

As we climbed towards Foel Grach we were buffeted by the winds and by the time we reached the summit of Carnedd Llewelleyn gusts were so strong that they blew us of the path if not quite off our feet.

High Carneddau

From Carnedd Llewellwyn

From the high ground

Our descent towards the Ogwen Valley was along the Penywaun Wen and on to the Bwelch Eryl Farchog. This one of my favourite walks. A long finger of rock and grass stretches out towards the valley broken by a massive fissure in the rocks that calls for some real scrambling down and then up again.

On the descent I recognised a familiar face climbing towards me. On last year’s Challenge we descended the Lairig Ghru together I don’t remember ever catching his name probably because we were too busy working out the safe line through the snow drifts. As he climbed up towards us, as we were scrambling down, he smiled and announced “beware of this man, he leads you trough ice cold water”.

On our descent from the Ghru last year we had found ourselves on the wrong side of the stream from the main path. I could see that the snow conditions were worse on our side. There was nothing for it but to cross. We were both wearing Terrocs. Come on I said and plunged in and my companion followed. The water was running fast and strong. And it was bloody cold!

Our fellow challenger was walking with a mate. They were not on the Challenge this year but had decided to walk the Cape Wrath trail instead. We clung to the sides of the scramble and laughed as we compared kit. We were all in uniform: Inov-8 shoes, Golite packs and Pacer Poles. Apparently this duo were in Corsica last summer and were stopped and asked if they were English. How do you how they asked.? You must be English came the reply, you’re walking in Inov-8 shoes!

We said our goodbyes and continues on along the wonderful grassy drop down to the Ogwen. At the bottom of the climb most walker head down to their cars or the campsites but we were heading to Capel. We then had one of those annoying half an hours were you find the farmer has blocked off all reasonable means of exit and eventually we found ourselves bending back a wire fence to gain the A5. When will these people ever learn — you’ll get far less disturbance if you just put in a simple stile!

Finally, in Capel, we sat down to a cold drink outside the Pinnacle Café. It had been a good day, 17 kilometres (10 miles) or walking across rugged and high country taking in Carnedd Llewelyn at over 1,000 metres (a Munro I guess). Everything had worked well and the packs were comfortable. The winds were so strong that I felt we’d walked twice the distance!

As we sat sipping our drinks in the late sunshine I glanced up to see yet another Challenger approaching, Rob Stone a man with a certain amount of style and taste — he also uses ULA packs and MLD tarp tents! Rob had spent the day climbing up and down the Glyders and Tryfan. We worked out we might next meet each other on the top of Ben Alder in a few weeks time.

As rehearsals go this was a pretty good mini break. And guess what? As I strolled around the gear shops in Betwys next morning I’m sure I spied another couple of Challengers!

Whoever you were I hope we meet somewhere along the trail in a week or so’s time!

Skyline Walking

You don’t always need a challenging itinerary to have a great day. You don’t need to be at the top of the highest hill. You don’t have to challenge yourself in terms of navigation. Sometimes it is just good to be out there.

Today, on the Brecon Beacons, was such a day. I love these hills because of days like this, a sharp pull up from the car park onto some of the most lovely and accessible ridge walking that you will find. There may have been a heat haze but you could still see for miles and miles. The ridge walks themselves are nice and easy undulating over a series of small rises and peaks. It was sun tan lotion and shorts walking which was delightful this early in the season. My mate Carl reckoned he’d got a little sun stroke, although I was protected by the old faithful Tilly Hat (first outing this year).

This was a quick dash of a walk, an early start from Birmingham, on the hill at 10.00, four hours of walking and then a lovely pint in the Bear at Crickhowell.  All in all, a short but satisfactory day out.

Brecon

Brecon

Brecon

Heat Haze

Brecon

Brecon

Carl Rice

Blazing sun walking and lunch break

That’s What I call a Walking Group …

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5577074036_4af7fceab4.jpg

The First Signs of Spring!

From Ragleth Hill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Ragleth Hill. 1/15, f16, ISO 50

Yesterday was the first day that I’ve felt that spring had truly come to my local hills. The signs? An absence of a cold edge to the wind? Birds swooping and chirping with delight and purpose? Animals bouncing around on the soft grass?. Yep, all of these things were present but these were not the real signs of Spring that I encountered.

It was an uneventful day strolling and clambering over the quieter and steeper walks. I settled one particular spot for my lunch stop, a high vantage point with delightful views up a narrow valley towards the top of the ridge and with panoramic views of gentle hills that faded towards the vanishing point. Despite being panoramic this spot is exposed and this was the first time this year that lunch here was a realistic option. I clambered up a climb to my resting place only to find it full of 30 or so young Duke of Edinburgh hopefuls. Spring has truly arrived. You could tell it was easy in the D of E season as the group took up the traditional walking pattern, ten minutes walking, ten minutes resting and group discussion and then another ten minutes walking.

Thankfully the group moved on as I sat down to eat. I moved on, climbed up over a rise and dropped down around a corner and there was the group again — about ten minutes walk from the picnic spot. You could have set your watch by them!

After that I sought out even quieter and more remote paths.

Ashes Hollow

 

Ashes Hollow. 1/15,f8.ISO 50.

Back in Church Stretton the Bank’s bitter was on good form but there were even better pleasures to come; the train station has a new shelter! the old shelter here was a horrid concrete affair that stank of years of youthful urine spraying. The floor of the shelter was always strewn with rotting cider cans and occasionally the odd syringe. But now Network Rail have torn down the concrete and erected a plastic , light, vandal proof shelter with electric lights for the dark. A long overdue improvement this is, but despite being a modest infrastructure expenditure it has transformed days out for tired and stiff walkers at the end of their day!

 

Church Stretton Comfort

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Church Stretton Luxury!

Blown Off the Hills …

It doesn’t happen often in these parts but yesterday I was blown all over the place and almost blown off the top of a hill.

I climbed up through dense woodland to Ragleth Hill and its mini ridge. I didn’t drop to my knee, but I thought about it a few times. From the summit there is a way sign but I never follow it, preferring just to drop down very steep grassy slopes, through bracken and into woodland. Bad choice yesterday! the ground was soaking and my descent was punctuated by a series of slips and slides with me spending almost as much time on my bum as on my feet. It was almost dangerous the amount of water on that hill.

Climbing Ashes Hollow on to the Mynd I was assaulted by stinging hail and more dramatic wind. At the top I simply turned around and descended the way I’d come.

Not much else to report other than, surprise, I was the only one out in these conditions. Not much photo opportunity either except a few old clichés!

Woodland Floor

Woodland floor in winter

 

Cliche

Cliché! (1/8, f16, ISO 50. 17m)

Caradoc: the First Walk of Winter

I set off early yesterday morning at about 6.30. A thick and freezing fog obstinately floated close to the ground. I was quite excited as I set off snug in my Paramo, merino hat and gloves. Britain is the country that should have real seasons. It is our changing seasons that makes our landscapes so vivid and so full of variety. A walk in winter is often a completely different experience than is taking the same tracks during the summer. Our seasons seem to be all blending together as a result of changing climate, but there are signs — maybe — that this year will have given us the full range.

Caradoc in the Fog

As I started walking off towards the hill the freezing fog clung to the ground. The wind form the North East may have been gentle but it carried the sharp barb of arctic air.

It wasn’t the weather though that so invoked this sense of winter, it was the smell of the air. A canopy of rotting foliage lay near the edge of fields adding a kind of umami intensity to the earthy smell of the soil. A gentle smell of cattle dung wafted in and out, tempered by the slowing of its half life in the cold. Occasionally the wind carried the comforting smells of wood burning fires from close by farm houses that were well and truly lost in the fog.

Despite being a pint size 450 metres high Caradoc is a proper hill rising more sharply that seems proper from the gentle patchwork of fields below. At the top of the sharp climb I took a breather and looked around. I could see not a thing! Caradoc boasts a fine ridge with subsidiary tops and dramatic limestone slaps expertly sculptured by centuries of exposure to the wind and the rain. On this day there was no line of hills stretching east to Wenlock Edge, no dramatic shape of the Wrekin rising high above the pancake flat Cheshire Plain. Nothing.

Caradoc in the Fog

I was enjoying myself walking in such poor visibility. I felt I was walking in a strange kind of half life. I could hear the sounds of civilisation, the cars on the main road below, the occasional whine of a chainsaw and the sudden clunks and thuds from distant farmyards. But I was insulated in my own little world of wonder. In this visibility it was impossible to judge the speed of progress. Every now and then a limestone edifice would reveal itself just feet away from my face. Oh, look! A hill!

This was the kind of walking in indulges the imagination. A couple of weeks ago I wrote that a walker on the Ashes Hollow climb could easily imagine themselves in Snowdonia. Here, the looming slabs of limestone invoked a different memory. I had a very strong sense of being on the top of  Moor in the Cairngorms.

But Caradoc is not the Cairngorms and soon I was descending back into the strong scent of the woodland. From the small village of All Stretton I took one of the quieter climbs up to the Mynd a walk that is as surprisingly energetic as it is short. I sat and ate my lunch next to a tiny batch racing down a steep section of hill. I could see the green of the grass and the burnt ochre of the dying bracken but there was no sight — or sound — of the hills on the horizon. Towards the top of the tight valley and clambered up over open ground and bashed over the heather. Now my mind shuttled back to the misty moors of the Monaliadth. Still the fog hung in the air but I simply kept on climbing until I met the bridleway that runs along the top of the ridge.

Caradoc in the Fog

On another day this walk would give me views back to Caradoc and then later glimpses of the mystical wonderland that is the Welsh Marches to the West. But today there was nothing to be seen and nobody to encounter. On a couple of occasions I heard the sounds of thrilled mountain bikers cutting through the mist. They could have been fifty feet away of half a mile distant. But not once did they shoot into view.

As I descended back to the train station I was struck by how relaxed I felt and how well I was moving. Was that the mist or the crisp of the air? Or was it the result of the many hillwalking memories that had jumped forward to fill this foggy void? Whatever, it had been a great day. Walking high on the hills is a greta experience whatever the weather.

Long Batch

Soho Surprise

In London this weekend. Saturday was a fine morning and so I strolled into town. My first objective was the Photographer’s Gallery, but I arrived to find that the Gallery had closed for 12 months for refurbishment!

I stolled on through to Soho. Like many any city areas there are a lot more people living in Soho these days and there is a determination amogst residents to build a real community, in contrast to the usual activities associated with the neighbourhood.

I wandered down Berwick Street market towards China Town. Here I found a small farmer’s market, an attempt to bring a little bit of Marylebone into the area. Home made cheeses and fine breads sat amongst blackened windows proudly promoting all kinds of ‘poppers’ and multiple packs of Viagra!

I stood back to take a shot of the market street scene. I must have ambled near a doorway. “Oi, mate your blocking the entrance — the floor show starts in a minute!”

As I moved to compose my shot I was conscious of an extremely elegant women talking to me. It took me a while to understand what she was saying.

“Do you need a girl?”

That kind of thing never happens to you in the Cairngorms!

 

All the best produce …

Soho market

Mobile Fromagarie

The more traditional Berwick Street

Waiting for Customers

Berwick Street Market

Oriental Fruit and Veg

Gerrard Street Exotics

Gerrard Street Fruit and Veg

Chinese Fruit and Veg

Newspapers

Newspapers Gerrard Street

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Stocking Up

Silent protest

Slent Protest