Bob and Andy’s Big Christmas Night Out

You know what it is like, or maybe you don’t. You get to the season of goodwill ad cheer only to realise that you don’t have a Christmas Party to go to. Once again, Bob and I find ourselves in such a position. (I wonder why?).

So, Bob — as irrepressibly cheery as ever (well he he’s either that or as gloomy as hell) — has decided we will have our own party overnight, somewhere on a wild campsite in the Brecon Beacons.

The highlight of the trip will be a Christmas meal cooked on a series of camping stoves. There will be turkey, brussel spouts and potatoes! And there will be min Christmas Pudding! We will have party hats on top of our wooly headgear. There will be crackers and poppers. The stoves will probably be some ingenious prototypes of new gear that — if you are lucky — will make it to market next year.

What could possibly go wrong?

 

Oops, Damn and Drat!

I knew it was tempting fate to write a post on dementia! Yesterdays stroll on the hills became a celebration of forgetfulness!

I started with the best of intentions. On Monday evening I (unusually for me) got all of my kit ready in advance and I made sure that the pack was packed. Yesterday morning I was up and ready for an early start.

Mishap one occurred when I jumped on my connecting train at Shrewsbury. The Conductor looked at my ticket, smiled and told me that this train didn’t stop and my destination, Church Stretton. I would have to carry on until Ludlow. He consulted in machine. If I crossed over the bridge at Ludlow and waited 10 minutes I could catch the train back in the opposite direction. This train did stop at Church Stretton. And — with a real flourish — he announced that this train would get me to be desired destination a full twenty minutes before the real train from Shrewsbury would have done! Result.

The Conductor had been a little concerned that his counterpart on the return train wouldn’t be so accommodating, so he wrote out a special chit thing explaining what had happened. But, on the return train, the Conductor just laughed. It’s a nice day for a trip she said. And she was right. As the train sped along the sun was breaking through the cloud cover, a lovely gentle winter sun that softly illuminated all of the autumnal colours that sat over the hills.

One of the nice things about these local hills is that I know them like the back of my hand. I seldom need a map and on shorter, winter, days I rarely have any idea where I’m going to go in advance. So, on the short journey from Ludlow I changed my ideas about the day’s walk for about the fifth time since I left Birmingham.

Safely in Church Stretton I ambled up to Mr Bun the Bakers and bought some lunch and then ambled down the road towards Little Stretton. There’s a lovely pub here — the Ragleth Arms that has a very simple but beautiful facade. I’ve tried to capture this before with a camera but somehow or another have never been able to. As I approached this time the conditions seem to be right. The pub is covered in mature Ivy, the door solid old oak and the pub sign above the door is a lovely traditional design. I framed the image to just catch these features. The early morning sun was bouncing off the ivy leaves and saturating the colours in the sign. I clicked the shutter without really looking at the camera settings. Looking at the camera I realised I’d shot at something around 1/20th. I went to review the image (for camera shake) on the back of the machine only to be told ‘No Memory Card’. Hmm, I’d checked the night before I could have sworn that I had seen one. Never mind, I hunted in my small camera back. I always have four or five cards with me. But today there was none. Then I remembered that my last photographic assignment had been the kind that required all of my kit. All of my memory cards were still sitting inside the many pockets of a Billingham photography bag!

So, no photos then. I continued along a few tiny lanes and climbed over a stile, walked through the deserted campsite and headed towards the Long Mynd. At a small bridge over the Ashes Hollow stream I stopped to assemble my walking poles. But there were only five sections of pole in my sack rather than the six required. Pacer Poles don’t really work singularly , so Poles were out for the day. Never mind, sometimes it is nice to be walking without them.

I walked more slowly without the poles, but used the time well. I spent more time considering the surroundings and looking for potential wild camp sites and, indeed, I did identify a number of sites that I’ve never really taken in before.

Ashes Hollow is one of the quieter climbs up to the Mynd — they get quieter as you move South from Church Stretton. It was a quiet day in many ways not least that there were few sounds. There were no people about and most of the bird life has left for the winter. There was no wind and no wind sound. As I climbed up the Mynd my only companion was the sound of the stream flowing briskly down the hill.

The only sense that was properly stimulated was smell. There’s a musky kind of smell that dominates much of the UK’s walking habitat during the winter, as the fall foliage begins to rot.

Weekday walking is usually lonely walking around this parts. At the beginning of the climb I did come across a geography class doing some serious field work. How times have changed. Nothing like this happened in my day. All I can remember about my O level geography lessons was a teacher who verged between going mad because he couldn’t control the class or feigning complete indifference to our chosen way of spending time with him, which usually involved throwing increasingly high items at each other. This group seemed completely engaged in their studies.

My only other human contact was with a couple who were descending as I was climbing. They were in their late sixties, perhaps even early seventies, I guess. Their trip was one of a number they were making in an attempt to find a place to finally retire to. Church Stretton they liked because it hadn’t changed that much since they had last visited the area about 8 years ago. I assumed that they were pleased that the area hadn’t got too yuppy-ish but there concerns were more contemporary than that. What they meant that there was a good health practice in the town, it was near to a general hospital and — most importantly — that there was still an active library and community hub present. These were obviously a couple who had access to all modern comms services but they recognised that libraries are key to rural life. The library in Church Stretton is the home to the local film club that shows current releases, the base for local historical societies and more besides. Across the countries library services are being subjected to swinging cuts, because their provision isn’t statutory. It is quite a salient reminder that incomers see libraries in their wider sense. A town without a library is not quite the same as one which has.

Up on the ridge the mist had rolled in and I was walking in the worst visibility I have experienced this year, certainly since last winter. I strode on up to Poll Bank. The views from the bank are often stunning and you gaze west towards mystical mid Wales; on a clear day you can see all of the way to Cadir Idris on the southern edge of Snowdonia. But, while the views are stunning, you often find yourself in anything but a lonely spot as you have to share the experience with mountain bikers, hill runners and — worst of all — huge parties of Ramblers. But today there was just me. And the mist.

Walking in the mist can be quite cathartic. I set out to walk north, covering almost the full length of the ridge. In such misty conditions I was able to set my mind to dealing with a current dilemma. My TGO CHallenge route for 2012 (or whenever I next get in) as more or less been fixed now. I shall be starting in Torridon, cutting through Struy, over to the Monaliadth and Kincraig, and on to Balleter via. Ben Avon (no Braemar on this trip) and then finishing somewhere near Stonehaven via the Fetteresso. Some of my days are long but not overwhelmingly so and I’ve walked through nearly all of this territory before one way or another. But the route is too fast. It has me arriving in Ballater a day too early and sees me finish in Stonehaven on Tuesday. So, I need to eek out another day or two. This give me the chance to take in more hills and to take advantage of a short day or two. But planning such changes is not that easy as the days, particularly in the North West, finish at obvious finish points. But the walk in the mist weaved its magic and by the time I had finished I had more or less come up with four or five new variants that can be explored on computer mapping systems.

As the Mynd begins to fade out heather uplands and bridleways give way to wide, grassy paths that gently take the walker down towards the village of All Stretton. Dropping out of the clouds I saw an wonderfully soft winter light warming the hills of Caradoc, picking out all of the reds, yellows and golds of autumn. Caradoc had been my original destination but it would have no doubt been in just as much mist as the Mynd. As I walked back along the road to the train station I was able to take a long, lingering look at this fabulous ridge.

It wasn’t the longest of walks but a decent one for these shorter, winter, days. Walking during the week is not easy for very one I know but it allows the walker to take back those popular places that heave with visitors at the weekend. The National Trust Car Parks are empty, there’s no manic dodging of speeding mountain bikes needed and no great parties of Duke of Edinburgh students to encounter. It was just me, the hills and the mist. Just the right conditions for envisaging longer routes and longer days.

 

When Hill Walkers Go Ga Ga …

Now, here’s a thought!

Yesterday I spent the day with a large Care Provider Company who I sometimes do some work with. At one point there was a discussion with some non experts about people with dementia, and particularly the tendency for them to spend a lot of time ‘wandering’.

Of course, folks with dementia are not ‘wandering’. They are involved in a task that is very real to them but they may be trapped in a time zone 10, 20 or 30 years ago. For example, Mable might be seeming to want to always leave the resident’s lounge for no explicable reason. But talk to Mable and you’ll find that she’s off to visit her sister for some important reason, it’s just that the reason might be to do with something that happened 20 years ago!

There was some discussion of a man — let’s call him Bill —who used to have a stressful job as manager. Bill spent much of his life on the road and was always on the go. Now Bill is in residential care and suffering from dementia, but he is still always on the go. Sit him down for breakfast and he will have no interest in it (an appreciation of food is one of the first things to go). Staff working with him found it a real problem to feed him until somebody had the bright idea of feeding him on the move. Now, they follow him around as he ‘travels’ offering him bacon sandwiches as he moves — much as he would have done himself when he was working.

This got me thinking. What will happen when some of us are at that point of our lives? Will we spend our lives in the home out wandering across the big open spaces? Will our frustrations be due to the problems of finding a good wild camp spot in the main corridor? And, no doubt, some of us will be complaining bitterly that the cutlery on the table is far too heavy and bulky! It will take a fine member of staff to decode all of this.

All this suddenly jolted me from my day dreaming in quite a dramatic way. But then I thought about it some more. Perhaps this would be a nice way to go. As my faculties begin to fail I will be living in my own world, But it will probably a world that is high and open, wild and free.

Not a bad way to go that!

In Praise of Hills with Multiple Personalities!

I was out for a curry with my Munro Bagging mate Carl the other evening. We soon got talking about hills, and accessing the tops — which way is the bets way up and that kind of thing.

The conversation set off a train of thinking which has been returning all week. Of course, there are some hills that are very straightforward or very simple if you like. The hill offers one overriding experience or one main personality if you like.

Think of Tryfan in North Wales for example. Tryfan can be a great mountain, it offers very much a way-you-see-is-what you get experience. Tryfan is about excitement and exposure. Anyone climbing this mountain for the first time will have had an exhilarating experience. My problem with Tryfan is exactly that. On busy days the is a chain of walkers wanting to scramble up to the Glyders. The air is full of whoops and hollers and screams of joy. These days I usually prefer something quieter. But there is something nice in hearing these screams and realising that people up there are discovering something magical.

Over the A5 from Tryfan is an altogether more interesting range of hills, the Carneddau. From the A5 — and with Tryfan at your back — these hills offer great climbs and scrambles but approach them from the North and the same hills offer a completely different personality.

At 1064 metres (3,490 feet) Carnedd Llewelyn is the king around these parts. It is a great mountain to approach from the A5, from the eastern end of Ogwyn. The climb here is steep and exciting, a great first hill for kids; they get the chance for early use their hands and get scrambling. Most people take in Carnedd Dafydd first. Dafydd is — more often than not – a dark and brooding hill. Often mist will be descending as you head out on the ridge towards Llewelyn. It’s quite a moment when, out of the mist, emerges one of the biggest Cairns you will have ever seen. Hopping over slate and stones you soon find yourself on Llewelyn, ready for the return to the A5. The descent can be just as exciting involving slides down rocks and scrambles climbs back up the the finger ridge; the ride is punctuated by a massive fissure which seems almost designed with the sole purpose give hill walkers an exciting day out.

While this is an exciting circuit the other approaches offer a very different experience. Walk in from Llanfairfechan, on the coast, and you gradually ascend form the coast to the mountains. As you stroll over the hills of Drum and Foel Fras you are gently introduced into the wonder of these mountains with peaks all around, if you are lucky, shimmering in a heat haze. If you are unlucky the rain and the wind will be battering you. There will be no doubt that you are entering mountains but the experience will bean exhilarating one and certainly one to ‘blow away’ any lingering cobwebs! The leisurely walk gradually becomes more exposed and at Foel Gras the paths give way to causeways of stone. Eventually, after several false summits, the batters stones of Llewelyn are reached. From the summit you still have the excitement of the descent but approached from this direction the hill walking experience is a very different one from that offered from the A5.

This is a long and— usually lonely —walk, just the ticket for those times hen you want to be alone with yourself and to sort out all of those things lingering in the mind that — well — need sorting out.

And there is another approach. Travel a little further West along the coast and you’ll be entering the hill from Aber falls. You can simply trot up quiet valleys to the peak of Garnedd Uchaf —  another ‘pile of stones’ as described on the OS maps. There are few tracks marked on the maps here but these paths are well trod and soon deposit you on the top of a hill which shoves in the direction of Llewelyn. But you can vary this even more. Once above Aber you can cut across small valleys, slogging over heather and making you way onto lush grasslands. Here ponies graze for most of the year. In font of you are the hill and to the side the expanse of he Menai Strait and the Island of Anglesey. True enough,you will end up on the path to our mountain but this approach delivers up a completely different hill to anyone with a modicum of imagination.

This is the point of multiple personality hills. They reward regular exploration and only the inquisitive visitor will begin to gain an understanding of the complexity that the hill has to offer.

So, when you’re asked do you not this hill or that what do you say? FOr me the answer is almost certainly, “a little”. Stuck here in the city is nice to know that some of my closet hills are the most complex. They offer me choices for different moods. The hills themselves have different personalities. Yet they are always up for a visit!

The Gear Cycle: Putting Renewal Off …

I’m not sure whether it’s as a result of our new age of austerity, or whether I am just completely disorganised, but I’m increasingly contemplating a pile of gear that is now well past its best.

My last pair of trusty X-Socks have now finally developed holes so big that they have had to be binned — walking is now taking place wearing Tecko merino socks. Worse still, I suppose, is that my current pair of Inov-8 Terrocs appear to be well and truly trashed. The soles have worn considerably and there are holes in the upper fabric  but the main problem is serious wear on the inside of the heel protector. I guess walking in constantly waterlogged conditions has taken its toll this year. The Terrocs were well and truly one the hill at the end of the TGO Challenge this year and they were new at the beginning. In the past a pair has seen me across Scotland, over the Pyrenees and everywhere else in between before buying a new pair the following Spring.

Next I contemplate my Icebreaker merino boxers, a very comfortable piece of kit. These now feature rather more ventilation than the designers bargained. Still, they remain comfortable and will no doubt keep me going until the holiday period.

Next I look at my walking poles, my trust aluminium Pacer Poles. These are now battered (almost) into submission. The base sections have no paint left on the at all and the upper sections are catching up quickly. These poles have been  bent so many times that one of them refuses to collapse telescopically any longer. I do sometimes wonder whether metal fatigue might suddenly catch up with me when my pole is supporting my Duomid is stormy weather!

And then there is the gear that has been left elsewhere. My Travel Tap water bottle is still somewhere with Peewiglet up north. And my Paramo Velez trousers have now probably been sold in some car boot sale by those nice people in Cannich. Still, an ordinary Evian bottle will do for winter and I;ve still got the first pair of Velez trousers, even through they might not be as comfortable.

Oh, and there’s my main pack which now has a gaping hole in the webbing of one side pocket and which seems to becoming un-stitched around the main pocket strap. But I guess it has probably got a few years left in it yet.

I know there is a danger that everything will collapse at the same time but I pride myself that I am taking the kind of decisive action in life that Silvio B seems incapable to take.

Not a good time to be running a gear business I guess!

Just Where Has All the Water Gone?

My Restoration of the Seasons was misplaced. It sure looked like the change had come but her in the middle of the UK we still seem stuck in a fantasy season. Temperatures are lovely and mild and everywhere is still very dry.

Quite simply this is November, in the heart of England, and we are suffering from drought — something that is almost unheard of. On the Eastern seaboard of the US people are buried in snow and we’re enjoying summer. Something is going wrong somewhere!

Our dry conditions seem be becoming more regular occurrences. One of my most viewed photographs on Flickr was taken a couple of years ago on the South Shropshire Hills. I’m sure it is so well viewed because it shows a normally lively stream almost completely dry. I’d never seen this before, but since that photo has been taken this has become a more familiar sight.

South Shropshire — my local hills — present a wonderful English landscape, a patchwork of green fields and lush grassy uplands. But the drought here is getting quite severe. Here farmers and small settlements depend on rainfall. Many have never had cause to link to the local water grid but now their wells are running dry and the grid connection costs are prohibitively expensive to a community that continues to struggle through the economic crisis. Water tankers are now a common site in local lanes and farmyards. There is beginning to be desperation in the air after what has become an extremely dry year. Now many ploughed fields should be a blaze of young and vigorous green, instead they and dry and barren. What rainfall there has been has simply ran right off the parched ground.

Back at home things are hardly much better. We have had rain. The watering can which fills from the greenhouse is often full in the morning but the water butt has a long day to go before it is full. On Sunday a cleared some vegetable beds to plant garlic. The soil was moist but as I dug I found it was almost powdery dry just a centimetre from the surface. The drought here is not enough to leave my winter crops in distress, but growth is much slower the usual and the plans far smaller. It takes little imagination to see what a challenge such dry ground is to farmers.

The weather forecast suggests little change in the next week but maybe the simple act of posting this will prompt the rains! Mind you, we need a lot of rain over some time.

Sales of gaiters will not be that healthy this winter!

The Restoration of the Seasons

After our very unusually warm autumn life here in the UK seems to be getting back to normal and while I like the warmth even I feel something of a sense of relief.

We are nearly in November and I still have home grown tomatoes ripening in the kitchen and there may even be one of two more to pull off the three plants that I have left out in the garden. But out on the hills the normal flow of the seasons has returned.

The autumn leaves have no fallen and trails are adorned with the perfume of newly rotting foliage. The crisp, mulchy, vegetable, smell of cold days in something we take for granted here in the UK but it represents something very special to us. Our soils are made up of fast-rotting vegetation. Travel to Africa or South America and can’t help but be constantly struck by the vivid red of the soil. Here the temperatures are warm and dry and don’t facilitate the quick and damp rotting that temperate gardeners take for granted.

There are down sides of course. For much of the year I have walked locally on trails that have been conscious by their lack of mud. Now a distantly familiar slipping and sliding motion is reminding me that my current pair of Terrocs are probably getting to the point where I should take they lack of tread seriously. With Pacer Poles in my hands I can often close my eyes and think that I am skimming along some range of snow covered hills on skis.

One of the joys of the outdoors here is that we have distinct sights, sounds and scents for each of the seasons. Soon the bitter cold will have its day. But until then the distinct dampness will hold sway.

Tomorrow I think I will take a walk through woods and forests. At this time of the year there is really nothing quite like it.

The Failing Memory of London’s Majestic Docks

 

Royal Albert Dock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am a great follower of the notion of the late Bruce Chatwin, that landscape is made infinitely more interesting by the people that inhabit it. Landscapes are about change. More often than not, humans have had a major impact on the land. But even in the most pristine wilderness the landscape has changed the fortunes and stories of the human race.

The history of the land — and of the peoples that once lived there — are major features of my walks. I’ve walked long routes through Scotland fascinated by the stories of the land, the devastating sadness of Knoydart’s clearances, the great drove roads and the more infamous ones such as the Lairig Ghru where the drovers were more as likely cattle stealers. Mountain ranges are nearly always historic boundaries and barriers. Walk along the Pyrenees ridge and you can hardly avoid the stories of border wars and skirmishes and battles and even great campaigns as you walk along dramatic trails cut into the side of mountains which were once used for dragging down the high oaks that went into the making of the French fleet. A little further East the borderlands of the Alps and the Dolomites provide the backdrop for centurys European intrigue, warfare and political change. Yet walk through the Alps and you cannot totally escape a mode of life that has existed on these high pastures for millennia.

Last week I found myself down at London’s Albert Dock on one of the hottest days of the year. The dock was a huge expanse of water glistening in the sun. Opposite the new headquarters of Newham Council sat London’s City Airport. In the dock itself a party was learning all about kayaking. It was an almost idyllic site and the scale of the docks immense.

I first visited this area in the early 80′s. I had some friends who had bought space in first of the first Wharf developments in Wapping. The area was certainly not salubrious then. The wharf buildings were cold and crumbling and almost inhabited. Nearby streets such as Garnet Street were wind swept collections of poorly built council housings. The overwhelming atmosphere of the area was one of decay.

To wonder East from here — into the lands of the great docks — was like entering another universe. Huge buildings sat alongside huge stretches of water. The area was more or less deserted, a wasteland on a huge scale.

But with a little imagination you could imagine this place as the hub of the world’s trading networks, docks stocked with huge clippers that had arrived from all corners of the globe, wharfs busy with dock workers and sailors of ever race and hew imaginable. It would have been fast and dangerous. There would have been a terrible stench of cargo and stake air. The noises and sounds of the docks would have been more powerful than any heavy metal concert. This was a fascinating area and back then I found every excuse to wonder around it. Occasionally, you can still get a glimpse of this area through the gangster films made in the 60′s and 70′s. Back then the Docklands was a canvas to let your imagination flow.

But that was then. Strolling by the docks today it is almost impossible to conjure up those vivid dreams. There are still references to history in the place name — the Docks themselves and the Customs House — but as I strolled I could find no presentations, plaques or storyboards that focussed on the area’s once proud history. It seems such a shame.

Today the docks look almost like a custom designed playground. There is still much space for development here and tourism will almost certainly grow. It would be nice if visitors — from wherever they come — would be able to spent a little time taking in the story of the past. I’m sure their experience will be all the richer for it.

We should celebrate our developments and not be afraid of modernity. But we should also acknowledge the past. Not only has her past helped shape our future but it informs our plans for the future. We should help people understand and not forget.

Royal Albert Dock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Royal Albert Dock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos taken with an iPhone 4

 

The Commercialisation of Outdoor Blogging: Integrity and Authenticity?

I’ve just finished having one of my occasional chats with Bob Cartwight where we discuss trends in not only the outdoor world but new media. There are some things that are bugging me and that I’m not sure about. I thought I’d put down some ideas and ask your opinions. Where are we going and what be the implications of some of these trends. As bob always reminds me content is King. But as PR agencies, and departments, get hold of the blogging world are we actually providing quality content at all?

[Read more...]

Snaps from West Cork

One thing about Ireland, there’s never a shortage of photographic subjects!

MG 3394

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Union Hall, West Cork. 1/640,f8, ISO 50 @ 35mm. Tripod.

 

MG 3444

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday evening at Charlie Madden’s pub. 1/60,f4,ISO 6400 @ 21mm


MG 3327

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Sheep’s Head. 1/180,f8,ISO 100 2 17mm


MG 3360

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nets and Buoys, Baltimore. 1/45, f11, ISO 100 @ 90mm. Tripod.

 

MG 3262

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Contemporary Cork, Museum of Cork. 1/20, f8, ISO 500 @ 24mm

 

MG 3261

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cork Street. 1/45. f8, ISO 400 @ 65mm.