What I have here is a basic post that captures some of the things that I am asked about the most. But feel free to add to this and to contradict my advice if you feel you need to! (But do explain why!)

When to go?

The season is short; these are big mountains! From July to September the HRP should be open but at either extreme of this range you can find a lot of snow. Allowance should be made for route variations in bad weather, at least a drop down to the GR10.

September is generally reckoned to be the best month. The humidity has died away a little and as a result the thunderstorms disappear! The Parisians have also gone back to work!

You can stretch things a bit but at your own risk. A few years ago I helped someone visit Lescun in October. I urged him to go earlier but his timetable didn’t allow this. He spent his time in a snow-bound Lescun! He was a photographer so that wasn’t too bad, but he didn’t get too far!

August seems like hell but these mountains are often not that crowded. It’s not like the Lake District!

The Walking?

Hard at times but never too dreadful. The typical day involves climbing over a col and then descending to a lower camp site. You need to be on the move quite early as thunderstorms can develop in the early afternoon, and you will want to be on your way down then.

Conservative Days

Walking here in the summer is very hot and the high mountains are exposed. I have found that you need to look at the guidebooks with a little caution.

Kev Reynold’s Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees is my favourite book. It describes point to point walks rather than whole routes. You put them together to create routes. But Kev’s times are walking times, they do not allow for rests. You will be taking rests not only because you are knackered but because some places to cry out to be lingered in!

Tom Joosten’s High Route book from Cicerone covers the whole High Route. A number of people have issues with the detail and his long days. He often says something like, “you can break the walk here …”. That usually means it is a good idea to break the walk at this point!

Refuges or Wild Camping

Both can be good! Study the maps closely. On the higher ground you will find things a little rugged and this usually means stopping near a refuge. All refuges have camping around them (except Baysellance which is too high).

Many refuges have great spaces around them. You can camp close to the refuge or away from others.

Refuges can be very civilised. Arrive in mid afternoon and you’ll be able to buy a cold beer. You should also be able to eat in the refuge as well even if you are camping — but be warned this is an expensive option.

Don’t just stay at Refuges though. The better wild camp sites are superb and add to the whole experience. Mix and match!

Wild Camping Rules

France

Wild camping is encouraged within the National Park so long as you are camped well away from any access roads. The signs will tell you that only overnight camping is permitted and that you are asked to pitch only after 7.00 in the evening and leave early next morning. In practice there is no one to enforce the time rules so just be sensible and if you think a particular location requires sensitivity then act on it and be discreet!

Most refuges have camping grounds around them and usually these are designated by stencils of tents on surrounding rocks. On many sites such as Wallon and Pombie there is a great deal of lush ground to camp on. As you climb higher you will find the camping grounds tighter but you will find space. Baysellance is the highest serviced refuge in the Pyrenees and although this has a rocky area marked with camp signs I wouldn’t want to camp there! In my experience it is OK to pitch your tent around a refuge from the time you arrive. At some sites you will see new explorers waiting faithfully to 7.00 pm by which most people will have given up and pitched — this is France after all!

At the bigger campsites you will see tents that are left up all through the day, usually to cope with the demands of climbers. But, for example, if you are at Wallon and you want to complete the Circuit des Lacs as a day walk it does mean you can leave your tent and walk with a light back!

I like to mix my wildcamps with some being close to refuges and others being out next to high and beautiful tarns. the sites of these becomes quite obvious if you study the map.

Spain

Things are a little tougher here as camping is not as encouraged as it is in France. However, on the high reaches of paths you will have no problem with wild camping. As you get lower and closer to civilisation just use common sense and pick discreet places. It is quite common to see stencil signs on trees and rocks that forbid wild camping — for example near Respomunso. I suspect this is more to do with encouraging you to stay at the Refugio (which is a Palace by French standards). Just walk on a while into quieter ground and you will have no problems finding a pitch.

The ease of wild camping — and the stunning nature of pitches — is one of the reasons why I love the area so much. Always follow the ‘leave no trace’ principle and be careful when nearer civilisation.

Using Refuges

Many people choose to book ahead. However, bad weather can slow you down for a day or so. But everyone is slowed and reservations then tend to sort themselves out accordingly!

Refuges are wonderful places in which to meet people from all over the world. But the High Pyrenees is really camping territory. Take a tent and enjoy it!

Staffed refuges will offer meals with wine or beer! It is relatively easy to book into these even if you are camping, so long as you arrive in mid afternoon. The food is often good and based on a heavy carb diet for walkers.

There is an active programme of refuge improvements in the French Pyrenees and the refurbished places are remarkably comfortable. A number of them will even serve you lunch as you pass by. Most will sell you a beer of provide you with a coffee. Sometimes this can be quite unexpected. The refuge at Baysellance has a ‘pub’ attached which is open most of the day!

These high refuges are mostly supplied by helicopter so food and supplies are on the expensive side. Eating at refuges is perhaps an experience to go for occasionally rather than regularly. All rubbish has to be carried out with you as there are no bin lorries!

Staffed refuges in Spain tend to be lower and better serviced. The Refugio at Respomunso is a great place, positively luxurious with a really good bar (it does have road access). I quite fancy a night there at some point. The Refugio at Bujareuelo is also served by a road and is a pretty decent hostel. If you are passing this way a night spent here is well worth it. If you are passing by then spend some time having lunch or a coffee. YOu can camp in the big field in front of the refugio although I seem to remember a small charge being levied.

It would be sad if you walked through the area without at least some kind of refuge experience. Refuges are meeting places for people from all over the world and the international flavour of them is really very attractive. You meet lovely people in the Pyrenees. The last time I was at Bujareuelo a Polish girl was working the summer at the refugio. She was carefully collecting the nationalities of those who stayed. We were the first English people through that summer although there had been a Nepali Sherpa through the night before (we had met him resting on the Col d’Arratille).

Un-staffed refuges come into their own as you move East through along HRP. By now the routes are more isolated and rugged and you are committed for several days at a time once you walk there. Follow the advice in guidebooks carefully.

GR10, GR11 or the High Route?

It’s up to you. The GR10 tends to start and finish in lovely villages but they tend to be expensive although campsites and hostels are comfortable and well equipped. The Spanish GR11 is a more rugged walk but follows many of the same principles. Both footpaths are well signed using red and white slashes that can be found on trees and rocks. In the High Pyrenees route finding is usually not much of a problem.

The HRP follows the line of the mountains dropping down into Spain from time to time. This is not an official route an on some 1:25 maps is not marked at all. It may be waymarked with yellow slashes of pain and it may not. Your navigation skills will be tested more than on the lower routes but in practice the routes in the main parks are reasonably easy to follow.

The GR routes are not soft options and can involve more ascent and descent than the HRP equivalent (once you get high on the HRP you tend to stay high). However, in the main the GR routes are less strenuous.

How difficult is the High Route?

Anyone who is a regular hill walker in the UK will find that they can cope without any problems. The days can be long and hot but so long as you are reasonably fit you will be fine.

Heat will be the biggest problem you will probably face. Start early and give yourself good breaks regularly. Good sun protection is a must. Mercifully, at this altitude the evenings are mostly cool.

How safer are the walks?

On the higher sections you will find that routes are marked as exposed — these sections are covered in the guide books. In these cases an alternative is always provided. Mostly these exposed routes are fine. Many of them are paths cut into the side of mountains which were used for dragging lumber down the river below. As a result these paths are quite wide and you never really feel exposed. On other sections I have found myself suddenly realising that I am walking next to a wire designed to protect you from a fall. However, I’m usually so knackered and concentrated on struggling up the hill that I’ve not noticed the precipitous drop down!

I think there are one of two routes where Kev Reynolds warns people carrying large packs that they may feel a bit nervous. If in doubt when planning your route take the alternative. One thing is for certain. The alternative routes are never inferior routes.

Fuel

A perennial issue this. Canisters can be hard to find with French Camping Gaz being the most prominent. Camping Gaz recently took over Coleman and it is now easier to find our usual screw threads. But I’d recommend the MSR Superfly stove which can cope with both. You will need to buy canister fuel before you climb high. This shouldn’t be a problem if starting from towns like Cauterets but might be more of a problem in a small place like Lescun. Allow yourself time to buy fuel at a major town or city such as Pau.

Micro alcohol stoves are a great option. Alcohol du Bruyer is bought in hardware shops and supermarkets, is cheap, and comes in litre bottles. I now take a wood burning stove and a micro alcohol stove for backup. IN a two or three week stint I use mainly wood with the alcohol being used sparsely.

Water

Much of the lower areas are inhabited by cattle. It is wise to take a simple water bottle/filter with you.

Itineraries

Some people plan quick visits but this is an area that rewards time spent.

I’ve already mentioned the weather and this can easily steal a day or two. However, of the weather is bad in a town such as Cauterets you will often find that you quickly climb above it. Check the weather at information stations or local shops.

Walking in very hot weather can take its toll especially when you are not used to this heat. Don’t worry if you feel more exhausted than normal. And remember you will be walking at altitude. While you won’t get altitude sickness you can tell!

Until you have the measure of the place plan for reasonable days. Take an unplanned rest day if you feel you need to.

In hot weather start early and arrive at your destination in mid afternoon or early evening. You want to be coming down from high ground in early afternoon, especially if there are thunderstorms about.

The weather can be really bad for a couple of days. A favourite trick of mine when this happens is to use the excellent bus service to move location so as not to loose too much time. But hopefully you won’t have had this problem.

Food

Carrying weight is a bind in this heat. You might want to think about leaving fuel behind completely and just eating cold food.

Local produce works well in the mountain. Hard mountain blood sausage lasts for ever and is a great source of energy. Similarly, Pyrenean cheeses can last a long time in the pack. If you find a hut selling cheese high in the mountains then buy some!

Bread, ham and tomatoes are easy to find and can easily last three or four days in the pack.

Local supermarkets are well stocked with dried foods and soups that are excellent for the hills and these are often a lot cheaper that specialised hiking food.

Planning on a Budget

You will probably want a meal out at some stage. Lunch is always good value and stick to the ‘menu’ in the evening and you won’t be stung too much.

It’s the little things that mount up the Euros — coffee in a bar or cafe, a beer or two at lunchtime. That lovely looking salad is tempting but it will also be expensive!

If working to a tight budget stick to simple things — it can make a big difference.

Gear?

I usually walk in shorts for the entire trip. Do not forget high screen factor sun cream. You will use a lot of it!

The evenings cool quickly in the mountains and you will want something to wear that can give you some warmth —a micro fleece will usually do. I take my lightweight PHD down jacket and am always surprised by how often I wear it!

Waterproofs do not have to be that technical. Even when it rains it is warm and I often use just a windproof rather than a waterproof.

Tril shoes like Inov-8′s are wonderful. They are cool and also cope with agressive ground well. Big, heavy, leather boots are a pain. Try to never go with boots that have a Gore Tex lining — you will notice!

1:50 maps or 1:25?

1:50 will be good enough. These are big mountains and the distances long. The 1:50 Randonées maps often have more detail of facilities and routes than the 1:25. Counter-intuitive this for a UK walker, but it is true!

Tarps or Tents?

Pyrenean storms are legendary. If taking a tarp make sure you are comfortable pitching it in bad weather. A single skin tent that use trekking poles for support would be ideal. There are few mosquitos up this high!

Personally, I like some real space.In bad weather you can be confined to your shelter for hours at a time!

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If what you are looking for is missing here then simply place a comment — the FAQ will then be amended.

This is designed to just be an opening post. Please feel free to add to it.

The Ordesa Canyon

I keep being asked what I think would be the best route along the HRP for a first walking holiday in the Pyrenees. In the Pyrenean section of this website you can find reports of various trips but I’ve always avoided recommending one route.

I now think that a slavish following of the HRP just misses out too much stuff that is good. If you are following the whole route in one go then obviously that is your aim. But it you are in the area for two or three weeks there are lots of side trips and other options to take. Routes often get changed. weather can delay you for several days at a time and the blistering heat can make you take detours and unscheduled rest days. It is always best to take as much time as you can and then follow your instincts.

However, to avoid endless repetition of emails, this is the route I would choose if I was going back! This would form the basis of a great two or (even better) three week break. The walk can be started at Lescun, Candanchu or Cauterets. Give yourself as much time as you possibly can! You can find out more about these routes by looking at my previous posts.

Start at Lescun

One of the most beautiful places in the Pyrenees. Lescun sits in its own hidden plateau and has one of my favourite campsites anywhere. From Lescun you can hit the HRP and on to your first refuge before walking through woodland to reach the Spanish border at Candanchu. Alternatively, and my preferred route, is to take the GR10 to Borce and then walking on from there.

Whether you go via Candanchu or Borse the next step is to make your way to the Refuge at D’Ayous. D’Ayous sits on the GR10 and is a busy place but you can camp around the lake under the shadow of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau. Approaching from the HRP there is great wild camping before you get to the refuge.

Next, it would the climb up to the Refuge at Pombie which sits underneath the Pic. Pombie is a real, high, refuge. you’ll meet nice people here and you can socialise if you want or camp well out of the way!

From Pombie walk on to Arrémoulit one of the great high refuges. Pitches are at a premium here but search out both the land at the front and the back of the refuge and you’ll be OK. The Guardian here is a great character and given half a chance will show you his slide shows of mountain adventures all over the world.

From Arrémoulit you have choices. My preference would be to cross over the col and descend into Spain. This is hard walking but the landscape on the high Spanish side is worth it, more rugged and barren than on the French side.

You drop down to the Refugio on the Respomunso dam and lake. This is a characterful place and a good place for a beer. But walk on to wonderful wildcamp sites beyond the abandoned dam project.

Then cross back into France over the Col du Fache, a great and dramatic day’s walking approaching the col over a precarious (but safe) patch of clingy snow!

Col du Fache, looking back down into Spain

Head on down through the forests to the famous refuge at Wallon. There’s plenty of lovely camping here both near to and away from the refuge.

By now you may well need to stock up on supplies. Drop down to Cauterets and even take a rest day.

From Cauterets you can climb up to the HRP/GR10 variante that goes to the Oulettes des Gaube refuge and camping ground — a dramatic but cold location. From here you climb to Baysellance and then down to Gavarnie.

But I would not go this way. I’d climb back up to Wallon (or go from there) up and over the crest of the mountains and down into Spain and the Rio Ara.

This is gorgeous country.Don’t try and go too far, treat yourself to a wildcamp on the high grassy pastures.

The Ara Canyon

Descend to the high Refugio at Bujareulo. From here it is easy to access the wonderful Ordesa canyon. But a better trip is to descend to the lovely village of Torla and take a bus trip up to the Ordesa which will allow you a circular day’s walk around the whole canyon before spending an evening in Torla.

Then cross back into France via the Ordesa and Goritz and over the Breche du Roland, or even retracing your steps to Bujareulo and taking the old trade route back into Gavarnie. These routes from Spain allow you to see the Cirque at close quarters and give you the very best of views.

The Cirque at Gavarnie

You can take a day in Gavarnie and stroll up to the Cirque without your load. You can finish here but I prefer to walk on to the tiny Hamlet of Héas. The walk over to the Estaubé valley is a lovely day out and Héas a great place to spend the evening.

Héas

From Héas it is an easy walk down to Gedre and a walk or bus to Luz.

This total route will take about 14 – 15 days with rest days. It is worth taking the extra time to enjoy it. But shorter trips will be just as exciting and will probably encourage you to take a longer trip next time!

As always, feel free to email andy.howell@me.com

It is that time of the year again. Loads of emails are coming in about trips in the High Pyrenees. Largely, things around these ancient mountains don’t change that much. However, I will be updating some of the information on this site.

First up will be my ideal route in the High Pyrenees, a good two to three week trek from Lescun to Heas with two side trips into Spain to take in the Ordesa Canyon. Awesome walking this.

Secondly, I’ll be producing a FAQ which will deal with most of the issues tat are raised with me on a regular basis. I hope this will help those of you planning such a trip.

These will appear over the next week so you just have to be a little patient!