Preparing Your First Challenge: Wild Camping

I’ve had a couple of emails this week from readers who are first time applicants for the TGO Challenge, and who are beginning to think of their route. Both of them have asked more or less the same question. Looking back on my first Challenge, what would I have done differently? Good question. Why not avoid the pitfalls of others!

Most first timers tend to share a similar perspective; their first routes have involved far too much road walking. If you listen to the current series of TGO podcasts you’ll hear Louise talk about this quite eloquently. She couldn’t understand what the problem with road walking was, but by the tie she had reached Braemar she knew! The difficulty here is that many first timers will pick a traditional first time route, mainly because they are walking in alien country and are not quite sure what to expect. And this can involve a lot of road walking. I would certainly advise you to minimise the time you spend on tarmac, but I think my advice would centre on another area all together.

I’ve always enjoyed wild camping but even so I found that I hadn’t allowed for enough of it on my first Challenge. The wild camp spots in Scotland are superb and you don’t have to walk for long to find somewhere that will make do for the night. Plan your route a little more carefully and you can find yourself camping in high and isolated places with stunning views all around you. Looking back on my crossings the wild camps have always been amongst the highlights. During my last two crossings I have spent almost every night under canvas and last year’s route was planned around stunning wild camp sites — and I wasn’t disappointed.

Great Wild Camps

My first night on the Challenge was spent at a great wild camp spot,and this was on one of the more popular routes for first timers which stats at Mallaig.

Like most on this walk I had planned to spend my first evening near Soulies Bothy. But the day was a good one and I felt like walking, and I’d realised that there would be rather a lot of us at Soulies. I pushed on along my route and eventually made camp at the top of Glendassary. There is a bothy here — A Chuil at NM 944 924. This is a solid looking building and by all accounts a good bothy. But I camped at a wonderful spot below and away from the building at around NM 942 927. It was a beautifully flat piece of ground with a small stream running quietly through the site providing an easy source of water. As often is the case a few stones had ben rolled over to provide a seat and some protection for a fire. But the site was clean and unspoilt.

In the end it had been a long first day and I was a bit knackered. But as I sat and ate my food, and took in views I was in seventh heaven. This was the big country all right. I was really pleased that I’d pushed on. I sat in complete solitude as the sun dropped over the mountains, rendering the sky and the hills in wonderful pink and vermillion.

 

First Wildcamp

First Challenge Wild Camp

Looking back I realise that I only wild camped on another three occasions on that trip. Garva Bridge is a popular spot on the other side of the Corriarick Pass but it’s not that spectacular. My camp spot in Feshie was better but the weather was pretty frightening. The last camp was at the head of Loch Lee a horrible, stony pitch in the middle of a wind tunnel.

I came away from that first walk vowing to do better second time around.

There are lots of opportunities to socialise on the Challenge — some of them in great wild camps. But what I treasure the most are the periods of solitude, particularly on a calm night when you can relax with the views and become at one with the landscape.

So here are just some of my Challenge wild camping highlights. They may be even worth planning a route around!

Loch Mhoicrean

Loch Mhoicrean Wildcamp

Easily accessed from a Strathcarron start — and Dornie for that matter. This spot is around. It was reached following a long first day but the spot made for easy access to the high cols and tops next morning as you head towards Loch Mullardoch.

This was around NH 077 319

Gaorsaic

A high wild camp that I enjoyed with Phil Turner this year. Well positioned for a quick hop to Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan and the ridge above Albeithe next morning. We didn’t make the ridge as the weather deteriorated during the night but we had a wonderful evening here. NH 035 251.

Gleann Gaorsaic Wildcamp

 

The Balmaccan

Another site from this year — worth building a route around! NH 347 224. A superb and atmospheric place. See the 2010 journal for more details.

Balmacaan Wild Camp

 

The River Findhorn

Simply majestic, the Findhorn is one of the great rivers and landscapes easily accessed from one of the Mondaliath crossings. This was the view from my tent as the sun began to set. NH 674 147.

Glen Mazaran

A lovely small Glen at the end of one of the longer days through the Monadliath. This shot shows the Glen from high up. Who wouldn’t want to spend the evening here! NH 733 225.

Glen Mazaran

 

Glen Derry

The lovely grounds around Derry Lodge are very popular with Challengers. Bt higher up the Glen, just after the route that comes down from Ben McDui, is a lovely spot with perhaps just enough for two tents. Just as fine as Derry Lodge and if you’re not in the mood for company, well it’s perfect! NO 035 985.

Cairngorms July 08 014

 

I could go on and on, sharing other wonderful sites and photos! But you get the point. These are all great spots but it is easy to find your own. Study the maps in advance and look for those flattish extents of land in places that look reasonably dry. But often, as you walk, you will find yourself going further and stopping shorter, and that’s fine to.

Don’t Stop Too Late

If I could give you one piece of advice, don’t walk too late. When you’re tired it is no joke trying to search out that flat pitch or to find a piece of dry ground in a place that has turned out to be waterlogged. It is worth setting up camp when you still feel fresh. You’ll enjoy the evening more.

There is always a tendency to just walk a bit further and to see what is around the corner. This is fine but I’d be wary of it the further the day goes on.

I fairness this is one piece of advice that I need to take more often myself as I often find myself pushing on and finishing too late!

 

.. and where to avoid!

My least favourite camp spot? Easy. Outside the bothy at the Sheilin of Mark. It looks atmospheric in the photos but the ground can be horribly uneven and uncomfortable!

Shielin of Mark Camp

That being said you’ll probably stay here sooner rather than later. If you are planning a stop here then take my advice — pack a Neoair mat. You’ll need than insulation from the ground!

 

So, there you go. If I had one piece of advice to share with first timers it would be to plan for as many wild camp sites as you can. You won’t regret it. As for socialising? Well Braemar always awaits!

 

 

Working With the Weather

One of the nice things about having a blog that is associated with a mountain range like the Pyrenees is that — even when you haven’t been there recently — you get lots of updates from those that have recently returned.

Early in the year the emails came in from those who were venturing into the Pyrenees for the first time. Things went quiet and then the emails started rolling in earlier this month. thankfully, everyone who had drawn on my blog seemed to have had a wonderful time.

One issue was common to many of these emails though, and it is probably worth looking at this issue again (as folks seem to work their way through the Pyrenees archive). The issue is the weather!

High mountain ranges in warm climates such as the Pyrenees and the Alps have storms in the summer — tremendous storms. As the Pyrenees is such a good place for wild camping an awareness and respect for storms is pretty critical. These storms can be ferocious  with driving rain, hail stones as big as golf balls and, of course, masses of thunder and lightening. Whenever you are near civilsation check the forecast for the coming days. It is not nice being trapped up high with the thunder breaking all around and you tent poles buzzing!

A good general rule is to start walking early, climb the ridge and then be on the descent by early afternoon — the storms break in the afternoon. the really big storms can go on all through the night and somehow — when you are stuck in the tent — everything sounds worse. The deluge of rain that accompanies them is very impressive!

When in the Pyrenees during August try and ensure you have enough time flexibility to vary your itinerary by a few days. This is good rule of thumb anyway in major mountain; it’s not like taking three day in Snowdonia!

The storms can be so bad that many people end up sitting them out for a few days. On my last visit I was hit by a storm while I was in the tiny hamlet of Héas. I’d assumed that the storm in the night had shoved away all of the humidity but the old woman who’s field I was camping in told me the storm was to return that night. Oblivious I pushed on up high with the aim of trotting into Spain. By lunchtime it clear that the humidity was very high again and the words of the old woman came back!

After sitting on a rock and contemplating the wall of cloud where the Cirque de Troumouse should have been I decided to backtrack to Héas. No sooner as the tent was pitched that the storm returned — even more violent this time. My planned camp spot high in the mountains would have been too high and too exposed. It was miserable down in the valley but it was safe!

The rule of every long trek is to be adaptable and to make the most of your new circumstances. In Héas I discovered the wonderful cooking at the local auberge — for two nights running! Peewiglet would have been impressed.

I’d lost two days of my itinerary three when you count in the day of movement to reach my next destination. Still I’d had a good time. Re-grouping I decided to take a bus to the Néoville Lacs — an area I hadn’t explored before. ANd they were brilliant!

A change in plan does not mean failure it just means a chance to look at things from another angle.

Make sure you have enough time up your sleeve to deal with such natural hazards. Always respect the weather in these regions. Work with it and around it. The mountains — of course — will still be there next year!

(For a rather funny take on Pyrenees weather see Alan Sloman’s recent account on his blog)

Lightweight Backpacking and those Little Luxuries …

One the key decisions any lightweight backpacker has to make is what luxury is it worth carrying? Hikers reduce the weight of their pack by scrutinising everything. True obsessives/aficionados like Colin actually weight even the lightest of things.

Most of my ‘luxuries’ vanished a long time ago. I might take a paperback book with me on a short overnighter when the overall pack weight isn’t groaning under the weight of food. But come the longer trek the books and so on are left behind. I know there are those who used to tear out the pages of the book as they walked, but that just seemed to me to be book vandalism!

I mention this because there has been a conversation on twitter this week between Phil Turner and Steve Horner which made me smile. Phil is a lightweight hiker, of that there is no doubt. But I sometimes wonder if this is so he can carry more gadgets with him!

The subject of the discussion this week was the new version of the Kindle e-book reader that was announced by Amazon this week. This new Kindle weighs under 250 grams “lighter than many a backpack) and has a battery life of between three weeks and 1 month depending on how often you use wifi — a 3G version will give you 10 days of battery life. This is pretty light and, of course, can pack a load of books into its thin form — about 3,500 actually! I suppose at that weight the new Kindle is a consideration, although the monochrome screen has its limitations for anything other than text, for instance maps.

The trouble is with all of this stuff is the weight adds up. Kindles, smartphones, battery chargers and small batteries: well you could always find yourself adding another kilo to your base weight without any trouble indeed.

This may be the future, but you don’t need a Kindle to indulge in the new multimedia world while backpacking. On this year’s Challenge I came across tent maker Henry Shires a few times. I noticed that he tended to disappear into his tent early in the evening. Henry told me that he was watching feature films on his iphone. He was in a B&B or campsite often enough to keep the battery charged effectively. I can’t remember how may films he’d watched, but it was an impressive total — I think well into double figures!

These days I make do with virtually nothing he way of entertainment. I do usually have a camera to stroll around with if I pitch very early but more often than not I’m happy to find entertainment and stimulation in that which is around me. Time in the back country is time for meditation and for marvelling of that which is often ordinary and mundane in the outside world, and which is so refreshingly different from the city.

At under 250 grams maybe the I will be walking with the Kindle at some point. But I think it might be a shame. Is this view of life something that comes with age?

Back at home I’m as geeky as anybody — you should see my broadband speed which was upgraded by Virgin Media yesterday! But in the hills, does going really light mean more space for the mind and the spiritual?

Mountain Rescue: How to Stay Safe and Enjoy the Fells

Mountain Rescue and Cicerone have come together to produce a pretty good, basic, leaflet on mountain safety.

The PDF version is here. Cicerone and Mountain Rescue would be grateful if you could cross link or make this available wherever you can!

Mountain Rescue: How to Stay Safe and Enjoy the Fells

Wild Camp Daydreaming

So, having got trail walking off my chest I start day dreaming about wild camping. Is there anything better in this life!

Baston Wildcamp

Lac de Baston, Pyrenees

A wildcamp lets you connect with the landscape around you in the most amazing way. I’ve sat in my tent high in the Pyrenees just watching the clouds, listening to marmots and simply watching the water flow by. I’ve woken in the Cairngorms to watch herds of deer move slowly across the hill opposite while the early rays of the sun cast a gold and pink glow over the heather. And the nights. High in the hills, away from cities, the milky way reveals itself in amazing splendour. Who needs entertainment with skies like this? In a tarp you can feel the air as well. There is no better sleep than that induced by a wild camp.

On a walk I may well have picked out my site well in advance. On the map it looks flat and perfect, but will it be? Walk hard and long and are often rewarded with stunning locations, perhaps perched on the side of a high and secluded loch. Or maybe things aren’t so definite. Maybe your not sure about the terrain or the distance you want to travel. The first time I came down into the Spanish Rio Ara from the French side of the Pyrenees I simply wasn’t expecting such a wonderful, lush and green high mountain landscape. I pushed on to far and too hard and, of course, the camp spots got less and less attractive. I should have gone with my instincts and made the camp the centre of the day. But on other occasions I’ve hit gold, cramming myself into wonderous spaces that can only take the footprint of one tent.

Loch Mhoicrean Wildcamp

Loch Mhoicrean, North West Highlands

Overnighter

Discreet camp in South Shropshire

Lakeland Wildcamp

Above Grassmere in the English Lake District

And then there’s this thing about water. Water can be bloody noisy. It’s a good idea to camp a little bit away from the stream or the waterfall. But I never do! I can’t remember a night in Scotland when I’ve not been lulled to sleep by he sound of running water. And then there’s the unexpected. Once in the Knoydart I had made for the shore of Loch Quioch which I’ve seen described as the best wild camp site in the UK. But just before it I cam across a small, higher lochan with a lovely sandy beach. As I pitched the tent I noticed footprints down the the water. Deer? As night fell, and as I lay in my tent, I was treated the sound of a stag deer walking right past the tent, positioning himself just a few feet away before letting our a cry to his charges, one that echoed perfectly around a min cirque. I’d spotted a great wild camp spot. The dear had found the perfect natural amplifier.

I know that wild camping in the UK can be dodgy, especially in England and Wales, but be discreet and you’ll be alright. I’ve woken early in the Shropshire Hills to walk to the high ground and be met by an early riser Park Warden, smiley and chatty and quite happy with a sensible camper spending the night in the wild.

You can also make your luck in the hills. As I pitch I always survey the land. What lies to the East and to the West? Sunset and sunrise of course. Some of the best photographs have been taken by just opening the tent near dawn, focussing and shooting!

Barrage des Oulettes 1

Lacs des Oulettes, High Pyrenees

Early Morning Pembrokeshire

Pembrokeshire Coastal Path

River Findhorn

Evening on the Findorn

Wild camping is one of the special things about the Challenge. If you’re on your first crossing then I hope you have plenty of wild camps worked out. If not then improvise. Use that wild camp spot that’s a few miles short of that campsite of hostel. You can always make up the distance, but the night will be so much better.

In my daydreams I’m already there, breathing the cool crisp air of morning, drinking that coffee brewed on the gas canister or eating a wonderful evening meal cuddled up in a snug sleeping bag.

Magic!

Solo daydreams

Earlier today I was looking at routes on OS maps. I quickly found myself in a thoroughly engaging. Maps can do that to you, and we’ve discussed this many times in these pages. But today the daydreams were about the joys of walking ahead — solo walking that is.

Don’t get me wrong I do enjoy walking with others and with my loved ones. But it is not quite the same. Walking solo you can walk at the your own pace, for your own distance and pick your own hours. Want to explore that hill or top? No Problem. Find a sunny spot for a little afternoon nap? Fine. Decide to change the route or walk into the night? Nobody else to worry about! Solo walking is less stressful as there’s no responsibility to take for anyone else. Mind you, it is important to take care of yourself, but that’s another story.

The high points are wonderful, great stonking vistas to take in, boulders to slither over and scree to skid over. There is something about being able to deal with mountains and hills on your own. Three or four years ago in the Caringorms I climbed up Bynack More in reasonably quiet if gloomy weather. By the time I had reached the summit ridge the winds began to blow; it was exciting. I fought my way over to the Barns of Bynack through driving rain and then snow. And then it was stinging hail smashing me in the face. I could have ploughed on I suppose and I probably would have done with others. But, damn it. This wasn’t fun. I decided to drop right down the hill, down steep contours, alongside a little stream that eventually made it to the little Alt that runs south to the Fords of Avon.

This wasn’t so much a walk as a toboggan down the fells on my bum. It was all great fun and completely irresponsible, you know those great slides where you fly over edges into heather no knowing what is underneath. It just had to be a solo experience.

But solo daydreams don’t just focus on the heights. There are those wonderful stretches of trail, or track, that just seem to go on forever. You hit your stride, adopting a pace that you could just sit in all day. In Scotland this might be over open moorland or if your really lucky through Caledonian Forest. There are birds to listen to and deer to spy. Of course, the famous TGOC cuckoo will be a constant companion in the West during May. On the path there are wonderfully hairy slugs to stand and stare at, not to mention those juicy big black things.

There will also be the sound of running water for much of the time. Perhaps, it is a stream or a small burn in full flight. Or it might be river slowly meandering down to civilisation and the sea. It might be the sound of water gushing beneath your feet as you crawl up to the high ground of the peat bog, the line of the water faithfully sketched out in the peat despite the subterranean meanderings of the stream.

As the day draw on there is a camp to discover. Walking in company its always annoying when that flat spot on the map turns out to be horribly tussocky or water-logged. Solo, I’ll just stroll on. There’s always another spot, another camp. The legs are working fine, let’s push on a bit. That ground down below towards the valley looks promising. What about that sun glistening on the u-bends of the Findorn down below? Camp made there are things to discover. Signs of other life? Yes, there’s a stone strategically moved to support a fire or stove. Maybe if you are really lucky there are three or four big stones heaved over to make a comfortable seating platform.

In the morning, well I might start early. Or I might have a lie in. Watches are not needed in the north in the warmer months. Just wake with the dawn and stroll on accordingly.

Wouldn’t it be great to stroll on like this for days and days? But even if its just two or three the its fine. There are those that like to think of Scotland as wilderness but eventually there’s a house though the trees, the sound of motor engines, the fluorescent flash of a kayak or the sound of a lawn mower or chainsaw. There are now people to meet, to greet, to drink and eat with. But the company is all the better for the days of solitude that preceded it.

But when walking alone I also value the chance encounter with my fellow walker. And somehow these are wonderfully different when walking on your own. And in Scotland these encounters are nearly alway entertaining. I remember an old chap in the Knoydart walking into Inverie from Strathan to see his mate. We stopped. He complained about the weather. Then he complained about the state of the path. Not maintained properly. And his boots; they were letting in water. At least I think this is what he was complaining about as it was difficult to really understand. And then the inevitable happened. That’s a nice rucksack. How does it work? Where can you get one?

Another time strolling down Glendessary and about to enter the woods I heard the sound of rushing boots behind me and a cry for attention. Another old fellow. This one was out on his monthly bird count. He was responsible for a stretch of glen and his job was to carry out a survey of bird song and bird call. What a wonderful way to spend a retirement. Every few weeks or so he drove down from Inverness to maintain his little stretch. We walked on through the woods. He knew everything intimately, the birds, the trees and all manner of wildlife in between. I left him eventually and soon found myself passing a car. Ten minutes later my new friend was driving past with waves and the sounds of joyous goodbyes.

Walking down Glen Derry once — on Midsummer’s Day — I spied a man in the distance adjusting his gear and heaving round a big pack. As I got closer I realised he was carrying skis. He’d been up on Ben Macdui the week before and realised there was still a lot of snow about. So he came back to ski on Midsummer day, just because he could. These have all been Scottish encounters but there have been others, just has delightful, in Wales, on the mountains of France and many other places besides.

These encounters can really make a day. But then you’re back on your own. If your lucky the sun will be shining. But it might be pelting down. Never mind. I’m safely tucked into my rain gear, warm from the effort of the walk, entranced by the sound of the rain on my hood. And if your in real luck the rain will break, the sun will come out and you’ll be walking through woodland, alive with most stunning display and exhibition of scent.

Are there problems to solve and everyday dilemmas to wrestle with? No these have been expunged days before. The mind is free to go anywhere and everywhere. There are tunes to recall from the dark recesses of the mind or, if your like me, new tunes to create and to play with, and many variations to employ in order to fix these places into memory for future recall. There are the songs and those songs. Walking songs are not about quality but about hooks. I once spent four days crossing through the Cairngorms happily singing and whistling a collection of Eurovision songs —I’d caught a documentary about the song contest on TV a few days before. I’d never be caught dead listening to those songs and tunes back home. But out on the trail, as the walking poles beat their steady rhythm, they seem perfect.

I am, of course, looking forward to the Challenge. If you’re a first time Challenger walking solo you’ll no doubt be approaching the whole thing with a sense of trepidation.But after a day or two you’ll want to slow the pace, you’ll begin to relax and simply take in the magic of it all. Walk with those you met by all means but preserve some days for yourself.

There really is nothing else like it!

Kindness to Strangers

Leblon Market

Walking through the simple but wonderfully vibrant market in Leblon I came across stall selling lettuce. It may have only been selling lettuces, but what lettuces they were. Suddenly the stall holder had left his post and was greeting me with the enthusiasm that people often reserve for foreign visitors. Much of the tourism in Rio de Janeiro is internal but I suspect Brazilian tourists find themselves down here as infrequently as international guests.

Do you like Brazil? Are you having a great time? He gave me his name which I’m sad to say I didn’t catch. I want you to have a great time here in Brazil. I’m at your disposal — I want nothing for myself, just for you to enjoy my city and for you to tell your friends what a marvellous place it is. I speak seven languages. It is wonderful to see visitors to my city.

We talked for a while and he was pleased that I was happy to wander alone. He was retired I think, clearly an educated man. The seven languages were impressive although I tried only French. As I waved goodbye his fellow stall holders — who seemed only to have one language — smiled and laughed, in obvious agreement with my friend’s sentiments even if they couldn’t understand they way he had expressed them.

In my travels I have come across the kindness and comradeship with remarkable regularity. It is nice to be in a place, and in a culture, where meeting someone from another nation is a cause for such celebration. Would visitors to London or Birmingham be greeted so warmly? I’d like to think so but somehow I doubt it.

Munro Motorways …

Regular readers will know that I am a little ambivalent about Munro bagging, Corbett or Graham bagging. To me a fine hill is a fine hill, never mind whether it takes 50 minutes to climb or 40. I’ve never been one for lists. And is there anything more boring in the world than the debate as to whether a hike as been promoted or demoted from Munro status. On our recent Cairngorm trip Colin Ibbotson put it well. They should simply stick to Munro’s original list and ignore all of this satellite measurement stuff.

To be fair advocates of bagging point out that baggers do walk through some extraordinary landscape in order to bag their hill and tops. But sometimes I wonder.

On our recent trip Colin and I left Blair Atholl but turned off the main Glen Tilt run to take a couple of kilometres of tarmac to get to our first Munro. This tiny road was surprisingly busy with cars that kept zipping past. It was a lovely day and it suddenly struck me that these people might be baggers.

Munro Car Park

The Car Park and the Hill

From a distance the bagger’s scar on the mountain was evident, one of those mountain motorways that you can find in Scotland. As we got closer to the hill we came across a car park, full to brimming with the cars of baggers. I wondered just how much they were taking in the countryside around them, dashing up in their cars and then dashing up the line of three Munros before coming home before dark.

The path up to Carn Liath was in a pretty poor state. This was no properly engineered path but a track created by simply dumping loose stones and chippings making the upper reaches quite slippery and slidey.

Of course, Munro baggers have a great time and should be happy celebrate both the land they walk through and their personal achievements. But sometimes I worry about our commitment to sustainability and the land.

To climb these hills from Blair Atholl you don’t need a car! Leave it behind and walk during the longer days if necessary.

Stretching Exercises

My Alexander Technique friend Gerry Foley has recently sent me an article he has written about stretching, its importance or otherwise pre-exercise. The gist of this is that while many people feel that this is important — and engage in some very dramatic stretching exercises — that there is no scientific basis for this.

I thought some of you would be interested in this. The article also links to a paper published in the Journal of Exercise Training which found that pre-exercise stretching had no effect in reducing the risk of injury. A later paper published in 2007 found that pre-exercise stretches had no impact on subsequent muscle soreness.

Over vigorous stretching can, though, lead to injury.

The right exercise for the right muscles, Gerry Foley.

Return to the Sheep’s Head: Reflection on Walking in Ireland

To walkers Ireland is something of an enigma. This is a country that has some breathtaking scenery — mountains, hills and coast lines — but where access can be almost impossibly difficult. Yet this is a country deep in recession on one in which recovery will have to be based on a different economic and social model. Walking in Ireland last week shows just how much we should be grateful of our access here in the UK, despite its frustrations, and also shows just what the Irish are missing. [Read more...]