I’ve had a couple of emails this week from readers who are first time applicants for the TGO Challenge, and who are beginning to think of their route. Both of them have asked more or less the same question. Looking back on my first Challenge, what would I have done differently? Good question. Why not avoid the pitfalls of others!
Most first timers tend to share a similar perspective; their first routes have involved far too much road walking. If you listen to the current series of TGO podcasts you’ll hear Louise talk about this quite eloquently. She couldn’t understand what the problem with road walking was, but by the tie she had reached Braemar she knew! The difficulty here is that many first timers will pick a traditional first time route, mainly because they are walking in alien country and are not quite sure what to expect. And this can involve a lot of road walking. I would certainly advise you to minimise the time you spend on tarmac, but I think my advice would centre on another area all together.
I’ve always enjoyed wild camping but even so I found that I hadn’t allowed for enough of it on my first Challenge. The wild camp spots in Scotland are superb and you don’t have to walk for long to find somewhere that will make do for the night. Plan your route a little more carefully and you can find yourself camping in high and isolated places with stunning views all around you. Looking back on my crossings the wild camps have always been amongst the highlights. During my last two crossings I have spent almost every night under canvas and last year’s route was planned around stunning wild camp sites — and I wasn’t disappointed.
Great Wild Camps
My first night on the Challenge was spent at a great wild camp spot,and this was on one of the more popular routes for first timers which stats at Mallaig.
Like most on this walk I had planned to spend my first evening near Soulies Bothy. But the day was a good one and I felt like walking, and I’d realised that there would be rather a lot of us at Soulies. I pushed on along my route and eventually made camp at the top of Glendassary. There is a bothy here — A Chuil at NM 944 924. This is a solid looking building and by all accounts a good bothy. But I camped at a wonderful spot below and away from the building at around NM 942 927. It was a beautifully flat piece of ground with a small stream running quietly through the site providing an easy source of water. As often is the case a few stones had ben rolled over to provide a seat and some protection for a fire. But the site was clean and unspoilt.
In the end it had been a long first day and I was a bit knackered. But as I sat and ate my food, and took in views I was in seventh heaven. This was the big country all right. I was really pleased that I’d pushed on. I sat in complete solitude as the sun dropped over the mountains, rendering the sky and the hills in wonderful pink and vermillion.
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First Challenge Wild Camp
Looking back I realise that I only wild camped on another three occasions on that trip. Garva Bridge is a popular spot on the other side of the Corriarick Pass but it’s not that spectacular. My camp spot in Feshie was better but the weather was pretty frightening. The last camp was at the head of Loch Lee a horrible, stony pitch in the middle of a wind tunnel.
I came away from that first walk vowing to do better second time around.
There are lots of opportunities to socialise on the Challenge — some of them in great wild camps. But what I treasure the most are the periods of solitude, particularly on a calm night when you can relax with the views and become at one with the landscape.
So here are just some of my Challenge wild camping highlights. They may be even worth planning a route around!
Loch Mhoicrean
Easily accessed from a Strathcarron start — and Dornie for that matter. This spot is around. It was reached following a long first day but the spot made for easy access to the high cols and tops next morning as you head towards Loch Mullardoch.
This was around NH 077 319
Gaorsaic
A high wild camp that I enjoyed with Phil Turner this year. Well positioned for a quick hop to Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan and the ridge above Albeithe next morning. We didn’t make the ridge as the weather deteriorated during the night but we had a wonderful evening here. NH 035 251.
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The Balmaccan
Another site from this year — worth building a route around! NH 347 224. A superb and atmospheric place. See the 2010 journal for more details.
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The River Findhorn
Simply majestic, the Findhorn is one of the great rivers and landscapes easily accessed from one of the Mondaliath crossings. This was the view from my tent as the sun began to set. NH 674 147.
Glen Mazaran
A lovely small Glen at the end of one of the longer days through the Monadliath. This shot shows the Glen from high up. Who wouldn’t want to spend the evening here! NH 733 225.
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Glen Derry
The lovely grounds around Derry Lodge are very popular with Challengers. Bt higher up the Glen, just after the route that comes down from Ben McDui, is a lovely spot with perhaps just enough for two tents. Just as fine as Derry Lodge and if you’re not in the mood for company, well it’s perfect! NO 035 985.
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I could go on and on, sharing other wonderful sites and photos! But you get the point. These are all great spots but it is easy to find your own. Study the maps in advance and look for those flattish extents of land in places that look reasonably dry. But often, as you walk, you will find yourself going further and stopping shorter, and that’s fine to.
Don’t Stop Too Late
If I could give you one piece of advice, don’t walk too late. When you’re tired it is no joke trying to search out that flat pitch or to find a piece of dry ground in a place that has turned out to be waterlogged. It is worth setting up camp when you still feel fresh. You’ll enjoy the evening more.
There is always a tendency to just walk a bit further and to see what is around the corner. This is fine but I’d be wary of it the further the day goes on.
I fairness this is one piece of advice that I need to take more often myself as I often find myself pushing on and finishing too late!
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.. and where to avoid!
My least favourite camp spot? Easy. Outside the bothy at the Sheilin of Mark. It looks atmospheric in the photos but the ground can be horribly uneven and uncomfortable!
That being said you’ll probably stay here sooner rather than later. If you are planning a stop here then take my advice — pack a Neoair mat. You’ll need than insulation from the ground!
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So, there you go. If I had one piece of advice to share with first timers it would be to plan for as many wild camp sites as you can. You won’t regret it. As for socialising? Well Braemar always awaits!
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