Remembering John Towers

Twin Towers and Lou

David and John Towers with Lou Le Borwit Sandwiched in the Middle!


I never knew John Towers particularly well but — like many who walked the TGO Challenge — I thought of him as a friend.

I first met John on my first TGO Challenge in 2006. I was about a mile from St Drostan’s hostel in Tarfside. If I’m honest I hadn’t really enjoyed myself that much during the previous two weeks. That evening I had camped at the very western end of Loch Lee, a rocky site that proved to be a very effective wind tunnel. I didn’t sleep much and was up and on the track early the next morning. As I turned off the road to take the track of the last couple of mile for so into Tarfside I managed to strain a muscle in my foot. I was in quite a lot of pain as I hobbled, increasingly slowly, up towards the last heathery hill. At one point I looked back behind me and saw two specks on the track moving at a much faster pace than I was.

To be honest it was quite embarrassing. I could hardly move. As the specks came into view it was even more humiliating to see that my new trail companions were, well how can I say it, of a certain age! It was, of course, John and his (almost) identical and older twin David — David was the oldest by 15 minutes you know! I relaxed a bit when I realised that these two were not carrying packs. They had got to the end of Loch Lee the evening before and had phoned Tarfside, where their wives Janet and Elizabeth were running the hostel, toil a life. The next morning they were honour bound to be dropped back at the pick up point and walk the few miles back into the hostel.

John could see that I was not only struggling but in some pain. I told him I was thinking of just hobbling on for the day to see how far I could get. He was having nothing of it. He insisted I joined him in the hostel, indeed he almost dragged me in there. And that was when the magic had its effect. As I sat around the large kitchen table, being force fed Janet’s bacon sandwiches and mugs of coffee, the penny began to drop. Later that evening I sat in the lounge and was royally entertained by John and Bernie Marshall with all manner of madcap stories. And I have entered the TGO Challenge every year since.

By the time I started the event the next year I had begun to realise that the Twin Towers, as we affectionately knew them, were quite simply walking legends. I think this was the year that between them they managed to knock over a gas stove and set fire to a whole mountain! John swore it was David’s fault but David was adamant that John was the culprit. It may also have been the same year that the two of them approached the Linn of Dee when the rivers were running high. One of them got across the water but the other failed. One walked to the Linn of the North Side and the other on the South. As I heard the story I could almost hear the chatter and the banter that would have gone on between them even though there was a damn wide river in-between them!

Although we bumped into each other a few times on the trail most of our encounters happened in Montrose. I developed a custom — especially when walking alone — of getting to Montrose on Wednesday evening. On Montrose Thursday I like nothing better to get up early and trot into town, buy a Guardian and Times and then go to the Coffee House on the High Street and spend the morning devouring the news, catching up on the last fortnight. John and David had the same preference for the Coffee House and I often saw them there catching up with the world as well.

I shall miss John and will never forget him whenever I think of the TGO Challenge. If John hadn’t have dragged me into that hostel on that faithful morning there is a very good chance that I would never have been back!

My thoughts go our to the family and especially to Janet. I hope us band of smelly walkers will still be able to benefit from Janet’s wonderful hospitality next year and beyond.

Shooting the Wilderness Breeze in Old Soho

Lovely evening last night with David Lintern who many of you will remember as the producer of a series of podcasts with Chris Townsend, Alan Sloman and myself. David was also a Guest Blogger here while I was away on last year’s TGO Challenge.

We met to catch up with each other, to talk about his trek along the Pyrenean HRP last summer, to compare notes for our routes for next year’s TGO Challenge and to talk about David’s new Challenge as he prepares to move North and develop a new career with the John Muir Trust.

Our conversation was a reminder that in these difficult and austere times the exploration of wild land doesn’t need to be massively expensive and yet can still provide you with one of those rare, life changing, experiences. There is – quite frankly — nothing I like better than talking about the Pyrenees. As we sat in a Pizza Express in Soho we ranged across the globe and backwards and forwards in time as we discussed the life of great wilderness explorers and mussed on the challenges faced by wild land over the coming years.

I was pleased that David remains an optimist although as a seasoned campaigner he appreciates how hard it is to really win your case. In my experience the best and most successful campaigning organisations are those who retain a real idealistic edge to their philosophy but who are focussed and pragmatic in their campaigning. I pleased to see that the JMT fits into this category and I’m sure we are going to see some interesting campaigning from them over the next few years.

I’ve supported JMT in the past but now I thing I’m going to become a member. They might be the kind of organisation to make a real difference in just the way — to be fair — that they have in helping communities in wilderness take control of their own destinies, like they did when they became key partners in the creation of the Knoydart Foundation.

Evenings like this are not only fun and exciting but I come away from them brimming with ideas. Now, all I have to do is to spend some time making a few of them happen!

Stockport Walking Club Date — 14th March

It is always a nice surprise to be invite back to speak to the Stockport Walking Group, as they are such nice people. To be be honest I’m surprised as during the last year I haven’t really done anything interesting! But the group have suggested talking about some of my less strenuous walks.

So, I’m going (I think) to look at two subjects in one evening — Walking in Ireland and Walking Cities.

Ireland isn’t perhaps the obvious place for multi day walks and backpacks — unless you’re rather mad like Paddy Dillon. However, it offers a great mixed holiday where walking or cycling can fit in with all of those other wonderful things that Ireland has to offer, and yes, including pubs! I’ll be looking, primarily, at the West Coast and especially West Cork which is one of the world’s great destinations.

The City Walking is a bit of a wild card but regular readers will know how much I enjoy this. It is my view that the great cities are walkable cities; those that are not walkable are really pretty shit!

Cities benefit from the approach of the hillwalker. Pick a linear route, especially one that takes you a little bit outside of your own comfort zone. Get out of the main tourist areas and — with just sensible safety precessions — you get a completely different feel of a place. It is a bit like, say. walking from a popular place like Dovedale. At Dovedale the whole world and its dog ambles off from the car park. Walking here can be quite unpleasant and you wonder what all of the fuss is about. But go just a little beyond the ambling hoards and the place and the experience is suddenly transformed. Cities are just the same.

I have had some great days walking in cries. I think of the North American city where everyone warned me about strolling away from the convention centre. The feel of the place chained very quickly as I moved jet from block to block. But the locals were great and keen to chat; my one regret was that I didn’t have more time. I also remember a wonderful day walking across Helsinki, my memories all blue and green from the sky, water and greenery. The Finns spend more money per head on the arts than any other state in the EU and it shows. A strangely relaxing and chilling walk that. On another occasion I was in Kowloon in Hong Kong and indulging in one of my photographic passions, photographing urban decay. A local man stopped me and although his English was poor I could see he wanted me to go with him. He took me off to photograph something nice, something that the local community was proud of! We then went to hi apartment and drank tea! And I was just taking a stroll.

I’m not sure of which cities I shall focus on at the moment, but I think it might be:

Paris: The home of the ‘flaneur’ or professional urban walker — a city that offers almost endless possibilities for urban walking.

London: So close that we often dismiss it. But this is a city where a little exploration can suddenly take you beyond the glass and chrome and into the world of yesterday.

Rio: A city that we will all be hearing much more of over the next few years as it hosts the Olympics and World Cup. This is a city that can be very frustrating, combining the feel of a modern Mediterranean City with the monied culture of North America. But, move beyond the shopping malls and the place transforms itself!

I hope this works but I do know that every evening I’ve had at Stockport has been lively and great fun.

I shall be there on Wednesday 14th March next year. If you are in the North west, put this in your diary  it would be great to meet up.

The Stockport Walking Group Website

Helping Heroes — Jonathon “Frenchie” le Galloudec

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Jonathon “Frenchie” Le Galloudec


Energizer batteries are sponsoring the Heroes Everest Base Camp Expedition. They have been in touch to promote the expedition and are “hoping to inspire the nation to make a positive impact and help give something back to our heroic servicemen and women who have given so much to protect us”.

They believe that everyone has the power to make a difference and have pledged to donate £100,000 to H4H and a further £20K if a Facebook likes target is reached, as part of their Be a Hero campaign.

Energizer is also sponsoring wounded soldier Lance Corporal Jonathon “Frenchie” Le Galloudec who together with his ex-servicemen father Steve, will face the steep task of climbing 17,950 ft to Mount Everest’s base camp.

This will be a massive challenge for Jon as he was wounded in Iraq in 2007, sustaining a gunshot wound to his spine which has left him partly parlaysed. He continually pushes himself to be the best he can be and is a true inspiration. To find out more about Jonathon’s story, here is a link to an article recently featured in GQ magazine.

The Expedition runs from the 4th to 22nd November and will all be personally documented with video diaries, blogs and tweets on the Energizer website, the Facebook page as well as the official Twitter page.

 

Expedition Facebook Page

Romillys Pyrenean Challenge

Earlier this year James Forshall got in touch me as part of his preparations to walk the length of the Pyrenean HRP trail. What he didn’t tell me that this was a charitable endeavour, the Romilly Forshall Foundation, that was set up as a tribute to James’ daughter Romilly who died as a teenager.

James has put many of the photographs of his trek online at Romillys Pyrenean Challenge and I’m sure these will be of interest to any of you who are thinking about heading this way in the near future.

The Rommilly Forshall Foundation aims to support homeless children in Africa. Links for donations to the foundation can be found on the blog page for the last day of the trek.

Trek the Andes Blog …

Funny this blogging game. Jut when I’m thinking that it might be worth given it all up somebody comes along with a piece of flattery which lifts the spirits! This time it is Mark Smith who has written:

… I would like to say thanks for all the good reading and listening I have enjoyed for the last few years from your  blog and podcasts. I am British but have lived out in Peru for the last 7 years so you can get a bit cut off from things at times so your musings have helped me keep in touch and mean I am able to skip around the local mountains nice and lightly with things like my Duomid that I would never have heard about otherwise.

Mark has recently begun a blog on trekking in the Andes:

I am aiming for a mixture of really good walk information such as walkhighlands, but put in a more pleasing to the eye format with lots of tales of trekking, backpacking and life of the mountain people. We have so many wonderful walks here which just never get done because people do not know about them and all that gets broadcast is inca trail, plus a few others. I would like to see people trekking other routes, for them to realise that backpacking is very possible here and also give a whole selection of day walks or couple of hour walks that people can just do themselves when here.

I notice that when overseas walking is discussed on the majority of lightweight or general walking blogs, it is mainly Pyrenees,Alps, GR20 and the States and I thought there might be people out there who would love to come trekking in the Andes but had just never thought of it.

Would I give it a plug? Of course mark. Flattery will get you anywhere!
Trek the Andes is well worth a look at. Mark is a blogger who understands the importance of storytelling. He writes very well and certainly succeeds in given the reading of a flavour of what is very obviously a special kind of place.
The Andes has been on my list of places to go to for a long time. Looking at Mark’s blog I think I will have to get myself organised!

Helen and Colin’s Walking Blog — Impressive New Walking Blog

One of the good things about accidentally becoming part o the blogging world is that you get to meet some great people. Amongst the nicest people that I have met are the folks who make up the Stockport Walking Group, who I have had the pleasure of speaking two on a couple of occasions.

Helen and Colin are two of lynchpins of the group and they have now started their own walking blog which I’m sure will be of real interest to many of you. Although the blog is in its early days you can already see that this is about walking and routes rather than gear. And the routes are good ‘walker’ routes rather than multi day treks and backpacks.

Blog posts carry details of walks and the actual routes traced on OS maps which is pretty useful. Colin works in the photographic industry and the posts are illuminated with some pretty good photographs that certainly give you a feel for the walk the places that you will be tramping through.

I know that quite a few readers find some of the more technical blogs a little inaccessible and sometimes bewildering. Helen and Colin’s blog is a straightforward walking blog and there’s nothing wrong with that!

Worth having a look at and adding to your RSS feed.

Helen and Colin — Walking Blog

Highland Hobos

The Scottish Highlands are wild and wonderful and each time I’m walking through them I find myself being frustrated at the short timescale of each visit. I should be finding some way to facilitate a linger trip. This summer I’ve bumped into two people who have managed to spend really big chunks of times in the Highlands and, to some extent, they were both fascinating characters but travellers who, nonetheless, only hinted at a small part of they story.

I met my first ‘Highland Hobo’ during the TGO Challenge in May. The weather had been appalling and we were a day behind our schedule when we dropped down to the bothy in Loch Chiarain (a morning’s walk out of Kinlochleven). This a fine and sturdy bothy sitting above a small and picturesque loch. We set ourselves up in oven of the downstairs rooms to brew some hot chocolate and make some lunch when we are joined by walker who descended from the upstairs room.

I didn’t catch the name of the walker but he told us that he had spent the previous evening camping near Corrour Station, but that the weather had been so bad that he ‘d moved along in search of some more substantial shelter for a few days. He told me that he was up in the Highlands for the entire summer, indeed this was how he spent very summer — he’d been mounting these long trips for (I seem to remember) over fifteen years. Each summer he made his way North spending some o his time working on bothy restoration and maintenance and the rest of his time walking in the mountains. Almost inevitably there was a solitary feel about him. I found myself wanting to express real admiration but just held back as I could sense another side to the story, the need to escape, perhaps? Or a desire to forget? Before I could go on he announced that this would be his last summer in the Highlands. The trips were taking their toll and there were other things in ice to consider, though he didn’t elude to what they were. He wasn’t in anyway an old man, being in his mid forties somewhere I guess.  There was a sense of transition in the conversation, a maybe a notion of reaching a tipping point. The benefits of spending such a long time in the hills were there, but they were — maybe — beginning to be out-weighed by other factors. It would have been nice to have carried on the conversation, and he looked like a man in need of a longer chat. But we had to push on and left to march on to Loch Ossian with fellow Challenger Rob Slade.

I met my second ‘hobo’ during a trip to the North West in August. My walking partner Carl (the bagger) and I descended from Maol Chean-Derg to the small bothy that sits alongside the Fionn-abhainn on the descent to Coulags. The weather was ciil and miserable and the rain had been coming down for reveal hours, not a deluge but that fine Scots rain that seems to find its way through any layer of clothing.

In the bothy we met Graham, a backpacker and hiker who had spent much of the Spring and Summer on the road. He had set off from Gloucester and had walked up to the Highlands and then seemed to cover quite a lot of Highland ground. I think Carl was surprised that Graham had chosen to spend the day warm and cody in the bothy — there was  warming fire burning in the hearth. (Carl was busy trying to convince me that the weather was gorgeous and that we should knock off another five Munros before dinner).

Graham explained that he only had a tarp for shelter and that as the weather had deteriorated he had made camp in the bothy. He was not a lightweight hiker though as I could see from his gear which was strewn all over the bothy table. His cooking kit was strong and robust and his outdoor clothing was based on thick, Highland woollen jumpers rather than on the latest, featherlite, fabrics.

Graham told us that he had left both his job and his rented home to tackle this trip. He only had a few days left and next day was due to begin to make his way to inverness and the train journey home. He would be sleeping on the floor of friends. His first task was to find work and the second to find a home.

Such dedication to hiking is admirable but, again, there was a strong sense of walking to if not forget, to put life and the world in a better context. Whatever Graham was seeking, I hope that he found it in the Highlands.

There are both only fleeting contacts and yet they seemed to say so much. Graham told me of a number of other ‘hobos’ that he had met during his travels, including one man who had been living in bothies for several years. Although permanent bothy dwelling is frowned on I’ve heard enough stories over the years to realise that this goes on quite a bit, indeed I remember reading somewhere of a bothy dweller who was a skilled furniture maker and who built a fine piece of furniture for his bothy only to really annoy other bothy owners — who liked things as they were.

I can’t help having admiration for walkers like these two. There may well have been some deep-seated reason for spending extending summers amongst the heather and blue of the sky and the water, but there was clearly great joy and pleasure to be derived from them as well. Some plan such trips with a clear objective — say to climb the Munros in one tripe — but for these folks just ‘being’ in the hills was reason enough.

These two reminded me of the importance of movement and travel to us all. The late writer and adventurer Bruce Chatwin felt that travel was very much the natural state of humans, and that walking was our natural speed of movement. I’m sure he is right.

Somehow — and without being able to tackle such a trip myself — I felt better for knowing that there were still people who would, whatever their reasons or their motivation.

Congratulations David, And Good Luck

David Lintern

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of you will remember David Lintern who guest blogged here while I was away in Scotland. David was also the guy who put together the radio interview that Alan Sloman and I did on wind turbines in Scotland. Well, David has just been appointed as — I think — a Fundraising Officer for the John Muir Trust.

The John Muir Trust is a great organisation not just in the way that it preserves wild land but in the day it has worked with remote communities to help ten take control over their own land and to develop sustainable settlements, places like Inverie in the Knoydart. Many of us who walk in Scotland have got cause to be grateful to the Trust.

This summer David waled the whole length of the HRP along the Pyrenees. His superb account is published on his blog — Self Powered — a movie account of not only walk but about how a long trip like this can change your life.

And, it looks as if David has changed his life. I know he worries about whether he’s up for the job. Of course, you are David.

The David I know is thoroughly committed to the outdoors and to the preservation of wild land. He’s a great communicator who understands new media. Oh, and probably most important of all, he’s a guitar player.

Well done David and good luck. I’m sure JMT have made the right choice.

Gordon Green’s Blog — A True Man of the Scottish Mountains

It’s difficult to keep up with all of the new blogs these days, but here is one to watch. Gordon is based — like me — in the West Midlands. His passion is the Scottish Hills. Currently he is wrestling with the dreaded midge! early days I think, but there is some good stuff here — and some good ideas for Scottish routes.

Gordon’s Off

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