One week, 7 days, 168hrs… doesn’t sound like a particularly long time yet in that time your life can change completely. Sometimes those changes will be for the better other times for the worse, fortunately in my case it was the former. It’s rare to find oneself in the position of having a longish spell of free time suddenly land on your lap and even rarer for your boss to suggest that you might want to go on a long walk without actually giving you the sack! But this was the position I found myself in only 3 weeks ago, I suddenly had 2 months available for something, but what? I had no idea but I knew it had to be big, I knew I longed for a real challenge.
6 weeks was all I had before my April 1st start date so time was short and at this stage I still had no idea where I was going. I also had the TGO Challenge pencilled in for 2 weeks in May but should I pullout? That would be a hard decision as I love the Challenge but this was a real opportunity that was unlikely to be repeated anytime soon. Frantically I sent a text to a few friends looking for inspiration; the text read “What would you do with 6 weeks off work? 8 if I bin the Challenge (starting 1st April). Send me ideas… No it’s not an April fool!†I sat back and waited for a response. Andy was first with suggestions of Spain, Canary Islands, Arizona, Columbia, South Africa and a few UK routes. Phil Turner was next and he had also posted the question on Twitter but his vote was for Greenland or one of the European GR’s. A lot of the suggestions could be ruled out quickly because of the time of year but one suggestion stood out and that was Arizona and its little known trail. When Chris Townsend also suggested the Arizona Trail subconsciously the decision had already been made.
The Arizona Trail
I first encountered this trail 10 years earlier when Chris Townsend walked it and wrote about it in the TGO magazine. The trail was very new then and was only 60-70% complete but I remember vividly Chris’s photo’s of stunning twisted rock formations, enormous man-eating cactuses, deserts and also the lack of water. Things have changed a little since his pioneering walk but even though the trail was officially designated a National Scenic Trail in March 2009 the route still isn’t complete and the man-eating cactuses and lack of water also remain along, fortunately, with the stunning scenery. The trail begins at the Mexico/U.S. border and winds for 800 miles north to the Arizona/Utah border passing through some of the most rugged yet spectacular landscapes in the Western US. On route you walk through the famous Sonoran desert and the Grand Canyon, the lowland desert of the Saguaro National park as well as many mountainous areas including the San Francisco Peaks. Kit must be able to cope with subzero snow covered mountain summits but also incredible heat in the dusty deserts. This along with the fury friends that you are likely to encounter on the trail which include bears, mountain lions, various poisonous snakes, scorpions and spiders make for an experience unlike nothing I’ve experienced before. But what concerns me most is water and more importantly its weight. Reliable water sources are rare with distances of 40-60 miles not uncommon if it hasn’t rained recently. A full water load for 2 days on one of the long dry sections is 16kg alone! Add to that 6 days food and kit and even if travelling lightweight you are looking at a 26kg pack. I haven’t carried a pack weighing more than 10kg in as many years and this weight worries me immensely.
Could I get myself expedition fit, get together all the kit and organise a trip in an unfamiliar country in less than 6 weeks (less than 3 now!).
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To be continued…
Sometime! Updates will be infrequent because of lack of remaining time and a million things to do but for now see the trail website http://www.aztrail.org/ and I thoroughly recommend getting a copy of Chris Townsend excellent book “Crossing Arizonaâ€. Â
The water flows abundantly, the temps have warmed up, the desert is moist and smells of sage and cedar… It’s going to be a great time!! I start the trail this Sunday, but email me if you need any help or info and I’ll send you in the right direction. Also, if you decide to do a little side jaunt through Sedona, my housesitter would love to welcome you into my home ..
Happy traveling!!!
Kimberlie
Have a great time. Chris’ book is my favourite backpacking book. It will be interesting to see how much has changed. Look forwar to updates on planning and the walk itself. Good luck! I’m hoping for a significant chunk of free time soon
Thank you Kimberlie for that immensely kind and generous offer but I don’t see myself venturing off the AZ trail. Planning is tough enough without over complicating things! I will however probably have some spare time after the trek that I could use to explore the Sedona in more detail. I will email you my contact details before you go. Good luck with your trek.
Robin – Chris T’s book has been a great help with planning as has Chris himself. I would love to take his book with me and compare now to then but I just cannot justify the 416g! I have looked for an electronic/audio version of his book but unfortunately it doesn’t exist.
Hi Colin,
First may I wish you a most enjoyable journey through a landscape I am certain you will fall in love with.
Chris Townsend’s book will have most definitely given you a flavour of what to expect.
If you have any time outwith your planning for your upcoming trip may I recommend some other books that may give you a flavour of the American South West..
These books were written a long time ago but Colin Fletcher’s love for the country the walked through are an enjoyable read:
This one (The Thousand-Mile Summer) can be purchased very cheaply through the following:
http://www.abebooks.com/
And from Amazon.co.uk for a few pounds this is an excellent read:The Man Who Walked Through Time.
The fellow that Advised Colin Fletcher on possible routes through the Grand Canyon National Park was Harvey Butchart – see Grand Obsession: Harvey Butchart and the Exploration of Grand Canyon (Paperback) by Elias Butler & Tom Myers
Harvey Butchart’s hiking logs from 1954-1987 can be downloaded from the net see volume 1: http://library.nau.edu/speccoll/images/text/txt/47689.htm and from there you can navigate around to download the other volumes, index etc. They make fascinating reading.
Do have a super trip and hopefully we can all read about it in due course.
Very best wishes,
Rob
AM still very jealous Colin !!!
Thanks Rob I will check those books out.