Itinéraires de Grande Randonnée en France
I bought a new map today, the 1:1 000 000 IGN map of all of the GR and E routes in France. What else do you do when spending an evening in a London hotel?
Other the the main mountain areas I somehow don’t associate France with walking and yet over years of ambling around there — sometimes on walking holiday and sometimes on, well, just ambling holidays — I’ve constantly found myself finding some long distance footpath or another.
This is a map I first saw about five years ago and it is a mark of uncharacteristic restrain that it has taken me so long to get hold of it. It doesn’t disappoint.
Open up the map and you realise there are GR routes everywhere, indeed there seem to be hundreds of them. As you’d expect there are loads in the Masif Central, the Pyrenees and the Alps yet there are plenty in other less obvious of less touristy areas. There are some great routes that run SW and WSW from the masif that I know would go through some wonderful country, following amazing rivers and passing through villages that may be sleepy now but have hundreds of years of rich history. You could create a great walk in the North, starting at Calais and walking through the first world war country to a great town such as Arras, before moving on to the Somme Valley — which is a wonderfully beautiful place. Just gazing at this for a twenty minutes or so suggests all kinds of options.
Last year I was chatting to LEJOG walker Alan Sloman about another big walk. He mussed on whether it would be possible to walk down through France. I was sure you could and suggested this map. Studying it now I can see some great routes. Paris could be a problem but then there are a couple of routes that walk right through the city, and seem to take a great line through it at that. You could avoid it by going west but that would take you through the great, vast, flat lands around Le Mans. Avoiding Paris to East opens up the option of traveling down through Rheims and then on down through the Burgundy vineyards. From there you could pop on down through the Rhone and cut off through Provence or go West through the Cevennes. Going straight through Paris you could travel through La France Profound, great country where tourists usually fear to tread, before joining the Louis Stephenson trail on its way to Cevennes and my favourite city of Montpellier.
There are so many options? Why don’t we have a map like that? I suppose because we don’t have so many routes.
But French maps can always be frustrating. While still in Stanfords Book and Map shop I had a good look at the coastal footpath around Brittany. Bob and Rose have been going on about this for a while. I reckon a ferry to Roscoff and then a trip West around the wilder coastline would be a great holiday.
Inspired I then sought out some more detailed maps of the area. First off were the 1: 25K maps of Brittany. Lots of detail here although I find these far more difficult to read than the OS equivalents. I was looking for details of campsites but there on none on these maps. Next up I looked at the IGN 1:100 scale maps. Camp sites are on some of these but then the scale is really a little too small to be useful, certainly away from the coast.
That’s the thing about French maps. I could plan a trip and find that I needed three sets of maps none of which did the business on our own.
Sometimes even the jaundiced of us Brits have to admit that the OS make darn good maps!
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Andy,
I just took a look at your blog by chance – having just come back from 10 days on the GR34 (Brittany coastal path), starting at Roscoff and heading west!
The French produce thin (and lightweight!) guidebooks for all these paths, which consist of excerpts of 50K maps, practical info, route descriptions and a bit of history (in French). You can buy these at Stanfords (http://www.stanfords.co.uk/stock/gr34-les-abers-le-chemin-de-phares-157580/).
I did about 200km, from Roscoff round to a place on the West coast called Lanildut. You walk a lot on dunes (it reminded me of Montrose at the end of the Challenge) beside endless beautiful beaches with rocky granite outcrops leading out to sea. On the other hand, it is quite built up and there are a lot of holiday bungalows passed on the way.
You also normally pass about 2 or 3 campsites every day, so you don’t really need to plan much in advance. The state-run ‘municipal’ ones are very cheap. One of them cost only 3 Euros for the night! The average I paid was about 6 or 7 Euros per night.
I had a very relaxing time and would recommend it.
3 years ago I took the ferry to St Malo and walked West to Morlaix (just short of Roscoff). That stretch has more cliffs and also lots of nice seaside resort towns that you pass through. Not as quiet as it is further west, but more lively.
Patrick
By Patrick Vincent on 09.17.09 2:05 pm
Faulty link. Should be:
http://www.stanfords.co.uk/stock/gr34-les-abers-le-chemin-de-phares-157580/
By Patrick Vincent on 09.17.09 2:06 pm
Sounds great Patrick. One day I’ll get round to walking some of that coastline.
By andy on 09.18.09 11:25 am
Great tip, thanks! I feel sure that a copy will be winging its way Chez Peewiglet in the not too distant future.
I’m hoping I can teach the dog to read the map. It’s why I got her, in fact. If she can’t do it either then I suppose there’s always the cat…
By Peewiglet on 09.19.09 8:45 am
I think if I wanted help with navigation a GPS might have been better than the dog …
.. but what do I know !!!
By andy on 09.21.09 11:45 am
Andy – Can you give me the details of your GR map, please (publisher/map name)? I would love to buy a copy and am living in Canada. I looked for an all encompassing GR map while I was in France about 2 years ago and I looked here about a year ago without success. Thanks, Leslie Ann
By Leslie on 10.01.09 3:54 am
Email despatched!
By andy on 10.01.09 7:01 pm
Andy – I stumbled on your blog whilst Googling for “Grande Randonnee”, having had just the same idea as yourself, namely to walk from Calais down through France either to the Italian or Spanish border (once I have completed my plan to walk from my home in the Midlands to Dover, that is). Nice to know that it can be done according to the map, which your blog has spurred me on to order (like you, I had been thinking about doing so for several years). Pas-de-Calais tourist board website doesn’t even mention the GR paths running through their departement.
It’s also nice to know that I’m not the only one with (what my wife would consider to be) an eccentric solitary hotel room pastime !
David
By David McDowell on 08.14.10 11:53 pm
David — that would be one hell of a walk. Where about in the Midlands are you? If this plan gets anywhere near fruition it would make for a good podcast interview!
Check out the Outdoors Station on google.
By andy on 08.15.10 10:02 am
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