All of British Summer in a Day and a Half!

Well, Bob and I got off eventually. After a pleasant train journey to Malvern I popped off down to see Bob and Rose and to make the most important choice of the weekend — where to go. The two of us were as indecisive as ever but eventually we decided that we were in a seaside kind of a mind.

We parked the car at Goodwick which was once a picturesque little village but which these days is just above the ferry terminal at Fishguard. After a quick coffee in the Beaches café (there are no beaches here) we shot off along the Pembrokeshire path.

We walked for an hour I guess in pretty grotty weather. It was raining heavily and the wind was picking up. Our campspot for the night was just past a little creak, in the bottom half of a cattle field. Luckily there were no cattle around but they had been recently and the ground was pretty uneven and beaten up. After some pleasant food and a platypus red it was off to bed for an early night. The weather during the night was atrocious. We found ourselves in the middle of a dramatic storm with horrendous rain and dreadful winds. Still, this was good weather to test out the new shelter even if it was difficult to get some real sleep.

We awoke to a calm morning and sunny sky. It was sunny enough in the early morning for us to spend a good hour successfully drying off kit. About 7.30 we hit the trail.

This footpath is one of my favourites, there is something simply wonderful about the quality of the western light. Footpaths like this are no easy option. On a good day the walker has to deal with a high level of combined ascent. The rain in the evening had left the path in a treacherous state. Mud was thick and deep and the stones slimy and slippery. Some of the sharper descents were very precarious and the going quite slow at times. Bob reckoned this was worse than Scotland in that the ups and downs meant that you simply couldn’t get into your stride.

We stopped for breakfast in a small, secluded cove. Just a few feet away from us, in the water, were three seals — they were not happy that we were there. I seem to remember being here in September once when the newly born seal cubs were basking with their mothers on the beach. Perhaps, we were disturbing preparations for birth?

Anyhow, we’re pretty insensitive to thee kinds of seal warnings. We had croissants to toast!

The Master at Work!

The walk continued to be difficult but the weather just got hotter and hotter. I’m not sure how long we walked but it could well have been over 15 miles and up and down and sliding along the path.

At Abercastle we sat to rest near the tiny harbour. It was a glorious afternoon. Wild camping is a bit more difficult around here and so we fixed on a campsite in the village of Trefin for the evening. Just as we were thinking about heading up off the hill a Welsh couple told us that they were waiting for the Strumble Shuttle bus which was heading in the right direction. A few minutes on the shuttle and we were in Trefin and perfectly placed in the Old Ship Pub.

I mention the Old Ship because it was a cracking place. Originally, we were heading for the pub in Porthgain. This is a lovely spot but a bit trendy. When Bob realised he’d been to Porthgain once before we decided to sample the Old Ship. The Speckled Hen ale was one of the best pints I’d had in a while. This is sold in a real ale pub near me in Birmingham, but it tastes nothing like this.

At the campsite we rather disturbed the site owner by asking if he had a pitch. Of he went into a real panic. He had regular coming. Would there be enough room? I suspect he was not too enamored by two smelly and muddy backpackers strolling in at the beginning of his busy season. But what does expect from the coastal path. After much reassurance about the small amount of space we needed we were granted entry. What is it about the Welsh in campsites? This only ever seems to happen to me here.

We spent a happy hour or two relaxing in a proper summer’s sun, testing tent configurations and washing ourselves and kit.

For the evening we hopped off back to the Old Ship. I remembered I’d eaten here before. This is in no way a pretentious place but a pub that still looks like the village local. There’s a nice beer garden at the back and we both ate the best steak and ale pie that either of us had tasted for years. As the sun died down we retired to the bar. The pub was quiet but then again it seemed the whole of Pembrokeshire was quiet. I’m not sure people are holidaying at home this year but staying at home.

Thankfully, there was no return to the storms of Friday and we had a pleasant, warm night. In the morning we had a leisurely start before taking the Stumble Shutttle back to Goodwick. The Beaches café may not have beach but it does do a mean and reasonably priced full breakfast.

We were back in Malvern by four in the afternoon. It may have been short but it was a great break with a long and wonderful day;s walking in the best weather for six weeks or so. These short trips really are refreshing, times to natter about plans and ideas for the future, all backed by some chill-out walking.

We decided that we must do this again soon. We wondered about a couple of days of bicycle touring, perhaps taking the Fishguard Ferry over to Cork.

Which reminds me. I’m off to Cork again at the end of the month. Fabulous place.

Oh, and there will be a podcast.