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Le Challenge Gourmand

RAB TGO Challenge

Conversation with Humphrey often focusses around trekking and food. Last night we were comparing culinary notes on the Pyrenees and Humphrey told me he’s been doing the same with Peewiglet.

It struck me that maybe we should compile a list of fine eating establishments that can be visited during the TGO CHallenge. Sure we’re eating dehydrated food for days at a time as we cross the mountains and wild places. But it is good to have a decent meal along the way.

So, for all of you first timers, here is the Challenge Guide to Good Grub.

Now, I’ve not really done enough Challenges to really create a big list. I’m relying on the rest of you to chip in and add your own recommendations. I”ll then put them together and add them to my Planning a TGO crossing section.

Mallaig

A popular starting point, this small fishing village boasts a great fish restaurant. The Cornerstone Restaurant is a superb place for seafood. Why not treat yourself to a great meal before heading out into the Knoydart! The restaurant also runs a great fish and chip carry-out. I’ve eaten here two or three times now and it never disappoints. The freshest Langoustines I’ve ever eaten.

Strathcarron

This is a great start which gives easy access to some of the quieter paths in the North West. Most people stay at the Strathcarron Hotel which is also the sign out point for the Challenge. Not in the culinary stratosphere of the Cornerstone, but good, wholesome food — and the fish is good.

Tomdoun

The Tomdoun Hotel is something of an acquired taste on account of the eccentricity of the owner who has more than a touch of the Basil Fawlty’s about him. But the restaurant is superb and — once again — the seafood is the star attraction. The bar also boasts over 100 malt whisky, if you are into that kind of thing.

Not the cheapest place, but convenient for those starting in the Knoydart or Shiel Bridge.

Fort Augustus

A lot of cheap eateries here. I’ve never eaten in the main chip shop but I’ve heard plenty of good reports.

Laggan

The Monadhliath Hotel at Laggan Bridge is a firm favourite for Challengers making their way towards Newtonmore, Kingussie or Glen Truim.

A highlight of going this way is to set off from Garva Bridge in morning to reach the Monadhliath Hotel by lunchtime. Nothing expensive or too special but I always look forward to a visit here; I always think I have earnt lunch. Good home made soups and correctly fried Haddock. A great meeting place for Challengers.

Laggan Stores is on the other side of the bridge to the hotel. A great little place for stocking up on all kinds of things. Fresh bread and pastries and a few nice tables outside on which to eat your picnic on a nice day.

Kingusie

I can heartily recommend the Silverfjord Hotel (in the station square) for anyone fancying a bit of luxury. I stayed here on my first Challenge — the Hotel had advertised their welcome to Challengers on the message board.

ON the night I stayed I was the only guest. I felt duty bound to eat in the dining room. I ordered things that the chef had to make fresh and the food was lovely — great venison I remember. Lovely people who really look after you. And a great breakfast next morning as well.

Braemar

Though the Fife Arms Hotel is the spiritual home for the Challenge during the middle weekend the food here can be dreadful. I ate possibly the worst meal I’ve eaten in ten years here in 2006. But there are some great eating options.

The Hungry Highlander chip shop and the main street is possibly the most consistently brilliant chip shop I know. It’s worth a rest day in Braemar just to make sure you sample their food once! There are a few tables inside for you to eat on if the weather is bad. You’ll be dining with other Challengers.

On my last visit here I ate at the Gathering Place bistro which is near the road to the campsite. It was a nice, friendly place with a lovely real fire. The food was really good and nobody seemed to mind my smelly clothes!

There’s also a great café on the North side of the High Street. I can’t remember the name but they advertise themselves as welcoming the Challenge — they often put a notice on the messageboard as well. Lovely breakfasts, just the thing as you stroll into town from the Linn of Dee.

There are a few other, new, places here. More reports please.

Tarfside

During the last week of the volunteers staff St. Dronstan’s hostel. Not gourmet food but very welcome hospitality. You can always be assured of a bacon sandwich and a nice piece of cake whenever you arrive. In the evening baked potatoes with an assortment of toppings are served around the kitchen table in a number of sittings. Not to be missed.

Edzell

A popular place for Challengers wither spending the evening here or ambling on to the North Water Bridge Campsite. I can’t remmeber the name of the café but it is on hte High Street and you can’t miss it. There will be a load of rucksacks propped up against the wall outside. Great, hearty, home cooking. And fantastic knickerbocker glories!

Montrose

I hesitate here, I really do. I often thing Montrose is the biggest public health disaster in the UK. I have never seen a population who look so unfit — you’ll see what I mean!

It is very possible to get your deep fried mars bars here, indeed, anything else you want deep fried for that matter. The Park House Challenge meal is a bit of a draw but, frankly, you don’t come here for the food, unless you really do enjoy rubber chicken. On the years I’ve been here the vegetarian option looks truly dreadful. However, the bar meals during the day are OK and lunch has been good.

I’ve not really eaten anywhere else except in the nice little café, which I think is called the Coffee House. This placed is a good little tea shop and is always busy. Good cakes and snadwiches. Mind you there is also something called a Mars Crunchie on the menu _ I have my suspicions!

posted by andy on 11.16.08 @ 12:55 pm | 12 Comments

12 Comments so far
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My best Challenge meal was at the Feughside Inn. My diary says “The Feughside Inn served a nice pint of real ale and had one vegetarian dish on the menu. I could not remember what Frittata was but I ordered it anyway and it was delicious!” At the end of a 35km, mainly roads, walk from Ballater I was absolutely exhausted and the beer and food at Feughside really helped my recovery.

By Judith on 11.16.08 2:20 pm

Question for you Judith. Did you camp at Feughside Inn? I’m assuming it’s the Inn marked at NO 643 925? I’m planning passing that way for the 2009 TGO Challenge and will probably camp there.

By Colin Ibbotson on 11.16.08 3:43 pm

Colin, yes I camped there. I walked down the Old Military Road from the North and passed a caravan park shortly before the planned campsite. The caravan park is of the gravel, gnomes, satellite dishes and white-picket-fence-round-the-4×4 variety and I was really upset because the site had sounded lovely when I did my planning. However, after a few minutes I realised I’d not gone quite far enough and I walked further down the road to the site marked on the map. I can’t remember what the site is called but there was no need to book and, although the Warden wasn’t around to give me the code to the shower-block, the disabled toilet and shower was left unlocked so I could freshen up before going to the pub. The ground was a bit hard but I could have slept on a washing line that night.

By Judith on 11.16.08 4:05 pm

Thanks Judith that’s really helpful.

By Colin Ibbotson on 11.16.08 4:38 pm

Colin, I’ve just reread your question. The campsite and Inn are separate but they’re very close. As I recall, the campsite is on the Old Military Road and the Inn is on the corner of that road and the main road.

By Judith on 11.16.08 5:00 pm

Brilliant idea, Andy and Humph! I’m off to cull some ideas from my Challenge Memories. I will be back…

By Peewiglet on 11.16.08 5:35 pm

I believe it’s the Caledonian Hotel in Ft. Aggie you’re thinking of Andy. I thought ‘The Bothy’ pub/restaurant was good too in 2006.

The cafe in Edzell is the ‘Tuck Inn.’

I really liked ‘The Tipsy Laird’ restaurant in Kingussie and believe the Hostel owned by the same folks is also good.

The Dalwhinnie Hotel and Clova Hotel both did good food when I stayed in them the year before last (anyone remember the stupendous Sticky Toffee Pudding in Clova?).

By David Albon on 11.16.08 5:55 pm

Don’t forget at Tarfside the residents run the information centre and cafe which is a half hours walk towards Edzil. However they do visit during the afternoon to take orders for take away food which they deliver to your tent that evening! The full breakfast is worth the trip in the morning ;-) )

By Podcast Bob on 11.17.08 10:12 am

Never tried that service out yet, but I guess it is a very god alternative to the hostel.

By andy on 11.17.08 11:29 am

Andy,

Brilliant list.

I took the liberty to rip off your list and map them on a google map. Happy to make you an author of it, if you want to add stuff also.

See http://tinyurl.com/5a3rka for the map.

Cheers!
-Brett

—
Visit My Ultralight Backpacking Blog at http://www.brettonstuff.com

By brett on 11.19.08 6:33 am

What a good idea. Could be a useful resource if you keep it up. I’m thinking about what else I could add.

By andy on 11.19.08 9:33 am

Tipsy Laird in Kingussie has consistently brilliant food, and always delicious veg options. Their veg bangers and mash is heavenly!!

By Bonnie on 01.04.09 10:35 am

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