Day 4: Ayous to Pombie

Ayous mornings can be magnificent. The sun rises against the backdrop of the Pic du Midi, but just to the side of the hill in a way which sets the whole thing off perfectly. Turn away from the mountain and the rays of the sun cast a magical, golden hue against the refuge and the hills behind it.

As you drink your morning coffee, perhaps still snug in your sleeping bag, the morning gets underway at the camping ground below the refuge. There is a buzz and sound of walkers stretching out and breaking camp. These are joyous sounds as walkers – young and old – are energised by the atmosphere of the mountains, Morning here, in the company of so many enjoying the same experience, simply makes you feel good to be alive.

Today we are heading for the first of the really high refuges, Pombie, which is located behind the mountain. As such it is possible to strike out from the refuge in both a clockwise and a counter-clockwise direction. But I think the best route is the one which retraces our steps, up past the small, high lakes, and back to the original junction to which we came on our descent from the Col des Moines. Here we continue so as to circle the mountain and drop down through a series of fabulous lakes, lovely places to stop and rest and just take in the splendour of it all. As we continue to descend you can appreciate another side of the Pyrenees. This is territory for the more modest walker or, especially, for those giving their children and grandchildren their first taste of then hills. It is the experience that is important to hillwalkers rather than the rules; the last time I was here I came across a little settlement of tents, proudly standing throughout the day against the spirit of the National Park regulations. But these were young people being shown the mountains and as such the rest of us all seemed to be rather pleased; nobody bothered that much.

Just past a pretty commercial sized cheese operation we branch off the main path which takes walkers back down to the GR10. The climb up is shockingly steep and takes your breath away after the gentle inclines of the last few days. And in the height of summer the heat is mounting just as natural share is receding. The map tells you that we are heading for a lake, or tarn, but when we eventually stumble on it it looks more of a puddle. The route diverges here. The HRP proper runs past the lake and scrambles up over a field of boulders. The more obvious path ignores the lake and continues to climb, in sharp, zig zags, up the sides of the hill. Both will eventually land you at Pombie.

Refuge and Mountain

Pombie is something else. This small refuge looks harder and more rugged. You throw down your pack, seek out a cold beer and as you relax you can then take in the surroundings. The refuge backs on to the mountain, a harsher side this. Scree slopes lead to sheer cliffs. Refuge staff offer lessons and guided climbs up the cliff face and all of the relevant climbing gear can be hired here. Probably because of its popularity with climbers campers are able to leave their tents standing for the whole of the day. Pombie sits above a small and not that pleasant looking lake of its own. But the camping ground – designated by tepees stenciled onto rocks – extends beyond the refuge onto a large, grassy area. There is not problem finding a decent pitch here.

Day 5: Pombie to Arrémoulit

A straightforward day but not one to be under-estimated if walked at the height of summer. We start by quickly dropping down from the refuge towards the valley floor. The walk passes through several small farms and here you can often see herds of Pyrenean Chamois, an animal related to both sheep and goats.

Soon you’ll be shocked by coming across a road that is winding its way up and over the border at Tourmalet. But the road is soon left behind as the path climbs initially through woodland and then back our onto open hillside. The climb is hard and hot. Soon after a col is reached walkers have a choice. The route delicat makes its way around to the left. Delicat denotes an exposed section of path to which a wire guard has been added. For anyone worried about this the alternative route – to the left – is less exposed, drops down to a lakeside before climbing up a straight foward path the the refuge at Arrémoulit.

Finding a Pitch!

Arr̩moulit is my favourite of these refuges, precariously perched amid the high mountains and surrounded by an almost lunar landscape. Flat pitches are at a premium here but are no means as rare as the guidebooks would suggest. There are two lakes here but if you arrive by the delicat route you may never see the second! Both have some flat and clear pitches. From the rear of the refuge a short walk, with necessary wire supports, helps you climb up to a higher set of pitches. But I reckon that the best pitches are around the second lake which is reached at the end of the easier variante of the climb up Рand found by looking behind the rear of the refuge.

This small refuge is great fun and has the un-mistakable feel of a mountaineers place. You can feel the camaraderie in the air. At the height of summer an overflow marquis is erected which extends the sleeping capacity of the place a little. But things are so cramped that meals are often eaten outside; the staff carry out tables and chairs so that you may eat with the view of the mountains all around.

Arrémoulit: small but atmospheric!

The last time of the year the Guardian of the refuge was also something of a character and explorer. The walls of the refuge bar were festooned by photographs and accounts of his explorations in Nepal, South America, the Alps and the Artic. On some nights of the week you may be lucky to be able to watch one of his audio visual displays of his adventures. And if you want to hang around the Guardian can also take you on guided walks and teach you how to Kayak!

Day 6: to Respomunso

From Arr̩moulit the HRP trekker now has a choice of routes. One sticks firmly to French terrain. This is a reasonably exposed route and some guide book writers Рinclude Kev Reynolds Рsuggest you avoid this route if your carrying a heavy pack (though many backpackers do go this way). The alternative is the route we are taking here. But although this is an alternative walk it is Рin my mind Рno lesser a route. In fact this route adds interest by dropping into Spain where within a short distance the terrain can change dramatically.

Looking back down on the refuge from the climb to the col

It is possible to walk – in one day – from Arrémoulit – to the Refuge Wallon, above Cauterets. But I’m not interested in rushing and for my money things work out better if this is split over two days. In the baking heat of August you won’t regret it.

From the front of the refuge two boulder-strewn paths make their way up to a rocky ridge; these are the cols of Palas and Arrémoulit. Kev Reynolds takes the former and Tom Joosten the second; it does seem to me that the Arrémoulit route is now the most used. (They both end up in the same place anyway).

Climbing up to the Col d’Arrémoulit is quite a dramatic and lengthy experience for you are literally hopping from one large boulder to the next. In the middle of the boulder field it is possible to completely loose your bearings but look around and you’ll soon find a line of tiny cairns that will guide you safely to the top of the ridge. Down beneath you is Spain. The route drops down and clambers across more boulders before a path is taken that passes a series of high mountain tarns. Everything seems different now. The skies of bluer and so also are the lakes. The landscape is more rugged and the climate is different too. Every now and then the wind will pick up. On the French side this may well mean rain, which brings with it the threat of a thunderstorm. But on the Spanish side rain never comes; the climate is more desert-like.

At the end of a line of lakes the path drops down through a very extensive field of scree and care really needs to be taken here as you can easily loose your footing. At the bottom of the scree the path crosses the small stream and climbs away to the left but it is easy to miss this junction; last time I was here the path actually looked as if it was closed. But no need to worry. You continue to descend and eventually you come to the GR11 footpath. Simply turn left to climb back up to the dam and lake at Respumoso. (The proper path has the advantage of staying on a constant contour – the GR11 alternative involves quite a climb back up again).

The dam at Respumoso comes as something of a shock. Suddenly from climbing a hill trail you are presented with some really scruffy, industrial surroundings, the grey of system-built concrete forcing out the greens and the blues of nature. But soon you’re past the dam and walking along the side of the huge lake; equilibrium is restored.

The refuge at Respumoso comes as almost a shock as the dam. While there is road access to the dam the refuge is still pretty isolated and I’ve often seen helicopters flying up the valley to re-supply it; but this is a million miles away from the French refuges. For a start the building is huge. There’s a proper ‘lounge’ at the front. And there’s a proper bar. And it services draft St Miquel! This place really does look as if it is worth a visit, although you would have to book ahead. It’s certainly on my plans for a visit some day.

Camping ground

The path continues on around the lake and soon you come to a huge, flat, grassy area at the end of the lake with the feed stream cutting through it. On the rocks here you’ll see rather large NO signs written in red pain (no camping again). But everyone does seem to camp here although whenever I’ve been here I’ve been all alone. If you have the energy there’s an even better spot a little further round. The path continues in an easterly direction and soon comes to the ‘new’ dam which seems never to have been completed. (There’s some weird story about EU subsidies but I’ve forgotten it now). You climb up to the left of the dam wall and then down the other side. Guard dogs give a warning that there is someone living here but, whoever it is, their territory is quite small. The path continues across a gorgeous expanse of flat ground, at the side of a gently flowing river. Climbers are often pitched here for the night and, indeed, it is the perfect place to stop.

Day 7: To Wallon

This is a straightforward day. Whether you have stopped at the first camp spot of the second, carry on up the path that leads to the Col du Fache. Initially this climbs up through a green valley, the river running in a deep gully on your left. But the walk changes as it climbs higher and soon you are clambering over boulders again before having to traverse an extensive scree field with hugh cliffs towering above you on the right. You keep a reasonably low line through the scree and come, eventually, to two small, high tarns. Now you’ll often be presented with the site of the footpath making its way through snow – yes even in August. And the snow may be covering a scree path, through a slope that seems to be running at thirty degrees to the cliffs. It makes you think this. Usually there is a need for a sit down and a think.

The first time I was here I waited a while, and while I was sitting on my rock, a couple went past. I saw them get to the snow field and bound across. With confidence raised I followed them. In this North facing bits of paths it is not uncommon to come across snow, but so long as you are passing through during the day you should have no problems. All you do is simply follow the footprints in the snow. All quite safe really.

Climbing to the Col du Fache

From their the steep climbs up to the Col du Fache. The Col is a good place to rest; you’ll meet a people here, of many different nationalities. But it’s never crowded. If you’ve the energy you can leg it up the old Grand Fache itself. From here the path descends towards the refuge at Wallon. The way is straightforward but the journey time longer than you would think. However, there is something wonderful is seeing the terrain change again as you leave behind the barren, Spanish mountains and descend towards the evergreen Marcadau.

Descending to Wallon Hosted on Zooomr

Wallon is a huge refuge; more details are given in the ‘Around Cauterets post’. But there is an extensive camping ground here which is really soft and comfortable. You’ll find yourself with quite a few neighbours and sometimes there can be a positively party atmosphere here.

Refuge Wallon Hosted on Zooomr

Hikers and Cows Hosted on Zooomr

Day 8: to Cauterets

You have choices now. You will probably be in need of re-supply in Cauterets and maybe even of a rest day. One option is to carry on up from Wallon (the night before) wild camping at Lac d’Arratille, before climbing over the Col des Mulets and down to the Oulettes des Gaube in the shadow of the Glacier; you would then take the Vallée du Gaube down to Cauterets the next day.

I prefer just to drop down through the Marcadau Valley. Start early enough and you can have breakfast at the hotellerie just before the Pont d’Espagne. Take the bus down from the Pont and you can be in Cauterets for lunchtime. Enjoy lunch, amble around a bit, visit the museum with its recreation of Russell’s cave and generally have a relaxing afternoon. All services are here: there are good shops; ATM machines; decent lodgings; and some very good campsites – one of which is virtually in the centre of the town.

Cauterets is not a bad place to spend an idle half a day, or even day and a half. But after that you’ll wan to get going again.

Itineraries

Walk: 4 days
Short: 3 days (Arrémoulit to Wallon in one day)