Our trek starts from the pretty village of Lescun, for no other reason that this simply one of the prettiest places to start from! More information on Lescun can be found in the ‘Around Lescun’ article in this section.
The start from Lescun is quite gentle and allows you to build up to the more demanding sections of the trek that you’ll come to within the next four or five days. The last time I was here I was feeling very unfit. Before I headed out on the HRP I tackled two of the circular walks described in ‘Around Lescun’; I was then well into my stride.
The Campsite at Lescun
Day One: Arlet
So, off we set. Initially we follow the line of the GR10, out of the village and past the campsite (handy if you’re camped the night there). After a little while our path strikes out in a southerly direction towards the Col de Pau. There are no difficulties here and this is a nice easy walk. This is the route taken by Tom Joosten. Joosten warns about the lack of water on this walk. This part of the Pyrenees has much in common with the Spanish side. The hills are manly limestone and there is little water to be found. At the Col de Paul the walk joins the HRP and heads east, following the crest of the mountain ridge, until we reach the Refuge d’Arlet.
Arlet is both our first refuge and first Pyrenean tarn. Arlet is not quite the high refuge that we’ll experience later on in the trek, indeed, the refuge is a popular day-walk location. But it gives you a feel of things to come. You can camp around the Lac.
Day Two: Somport
Day two is, in the main, a straightforward decent through the densely forested hillsides that lead to the col at Somport. The forests here run all the way down the Vallée towards Estuat and are notable for being the last habitat of the Pyrenean Brown Bear on this side of the border. A few years ago conservationists became very excited when they discovered the tracks of a mother and a young cub; previously it had been thought that there were no breading pairs left. However, they hadn’t allowed for the farmers of Urdos who tracked down the mother, shot and killed her. The cub survived but it was feared that it was not sufficiently mature to survive on its own. Still, it is difficult to walk or drive through this country without thinking of that young bear and wishing it well.
Somport, when it comes is a hell of a shock. Firstly, you come to a large ski complex which is a hard, dark, sixties, concrete kind of a complex. In summer it is completely deserted. But that is nothing compared to the shock of Somport itself. Somport is basically a huge border post which now, of course, has been rendered obsolete. Stand and gaze for a few minutes. This is not what you expected. The entrance to the end of the world might be quite similar to Somport.
You’ll need to work a bit to find accommodation for the night. On the French side you’ll have walked past a small Gite d’Etapes. I’ve never stayed here. mainly because it only has room for twelve people; but those who’ve been lucky enough to get in speak highly enough off it. Most guidebooks suggest descending into Spain to the village of Candachu (Canfranc in French). Here there are several Gites-type hostles and the last time I was here a campsite seemed to have opened.
But the best option for accommodation might be the one that the guide books are most derisory of! From Somport a small road leads off to the ski resort of Astun; you can’t miss it as a massive sign points the way. In summer Astun is pretty quiet and according to many people I’ve met rooms are very cheap in the summer. Last time I came this way I periodically came across a group of Dutch and French young people. They had spent a night at Astun and were very pleased with themselves. They had spent a night in real luxury and incredibly low prices. The other advantage of Astun is that you’re likely to have to walk past it on the next day, so it is convenient for an easy start.
Day Three: To Ayous
Many guidebooks suggest a stage that runs from Somport to Pombie, the first of the highest refuges which we will get to tomorrow. But look carefully and everyone suggests a side trip to Ayous; I think it would be a great shame if you missed it. This is a reasonably easy day but the first at which you have the opportunity to marvel at the full impact of the mountain range.
The road to Astun splits when it comes to the hotel complex and we take the smaller, higher road. These days the path up the hillside is found near the hotel on the far side of a stream that flows down towards the hotel. The climb upwards is a bit of a trudge. The valley – this low down – is dominated by pylons and ski-lifts; not very attractive at all.
At this point we are only half a mile of so from France. But here’s an odd thing. Every time I’ve ever talked to anyone here they’ve been Spanish – and they don’t speak French. If you need to ask advice here use English; folks are more likely to be able to converse with you.
After a while you reach an un-inspirational lake. Day walkers from Astun come up here, stop and eat their picnics. It is a reasonable place to stop. A worry does enter the depths of your brain; can the HRP be all as un-exciting as this?
So, one we go and continue to trudge up onwards towards the Col des Moines. And here the magic starts. As you clamber over the top of the col the full magnificence of the mountain chain is laid out in front of you. It literally takes your breath away. The trek has now begun.
Walking down from the Col des Moines
From here the path descends along picturesque, high, meadows. The Distinctive shape of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau comes into view. You find yourself bouncing along, energised by the high, open vistas ahead. The splits just before the mountain. The route to the right runs off towards Pombie. But we’ll take the route left, clockwise around the mountain. Up we climb past a series of small, high, lakes before the magnificent shape of the Lac d’Ayous comes into view.
The path leads to the refuge, a popular but pleasant place. You’ll arrive reasonably early and so it is quite proper to buy a beer or two and sun yourself on the terrace, gazing towards the magnificent mountain. There is a fine, accessible, circular route that moves around the pic. There are walkers of all ages. Some come on donkey back or horse back. But despite the company Ayous does not feel too crowded.
Lac d’Ayous and the Pic du Midi
As evening comes it is time to find a campsite. I front of the refuge is a fine, flat area at the side of the water. But this is popular with parties of young people and I prefer to walk around the lake where – ten minutes or so from the refuge – there are many fine places in which to pitch your tent. You can prepare and eat your evening meal watching the hoards at the refuge. At this distance it is quite entertaining. (See the Around Lescun entry).
Tonight you will drop off to sleep with the satisfaction of your first real day in the mountains. Dawn may well be even more spectacular; but that’s in the next entry!
Variations
You can save some time on this walk. Here are some suggestions.
For some reason I often get caught in dreadful storms in Lescun and so miss a day off my itinerary. I’ve realised that you can save a day by taking the GR10 to Borce/Etsuat on the valley floor. The Gites d’Etapes at Borce is the place to stay (see the post on the Madame de la Gites). From here you can then reach Ayous in one day. You have various options, including taking the walk from Etsuat along the dramatic Chemin de la Mature.
But I prefer to go back up to Somport, if only to experience the drama of the Col des Moines. A bus leaves teh town square in Etsuat at about 9.00 in the morning (about a ten minute walk from Borse). The bus climbs up to Somport through the increasingly dramatic cliffs of the Vallée d’Aspe. There is a great deal of history to admire here, in including some amazing and old fortifications that cling – seemingly impossibly – to the sheer sides of the valley. I think the bus ride is worth it for these alone; you probably won’t see this aspect of local history any other way.
More time can be saved by starting your walk from Borce or Estuat. You won’t have to worry about getting to Lescun although it is a shame to miss it. Walk directly to Ayous or catch the bus to Somport. Alternatively, there is a campsite higher up the valley at Urdos and a separate route from here can climb up to connect with the main paths to Ayous; these routes are clearly marked on the 1:50,000 map.
Timings
Walk: Lesun-Arlet (1 day); Arlet-Somport (2 day); Somport Ayous (1 day).
Shorter: Lescun-Borce (1 day); Somport-Ayous (2 day).
You may also find that – if you’ve started from Arlet early enough – that you may make Ayous in one day. But you’re on holiday and not setting speed records. There really is no need for this!
Just a point of accuracy. Candanchù and Canfranc aren’t the same place. It has a refuge but this closes at the end of August. Candanchú is a ski station (about as attractive as moonbase alpha). Canfranc is another dozen kms down the valley. Canfranc Estación is the railhead for trains from Zaragoza – a couple of shops, hotels and bars and a hostel. It is on a varient of the GR12, the Spanish transpyrenean long distance path. A little further down the valley is the small village of Canfranc which is where the road tunnel under the pass comes out.
When we walked the GR11 we stayed at the campsite ‘Camping Canfranc’ – see http://www.canfrancestacion.com/camping/ – which is close to Candanchu at the entrance to the Canal Roya (which is the route of the GR11). Really good site with a cafe and small supermarket.
David, I’ve heard good things of this site. The first time I was the area that campsite didn’t exist and the last time I went through I noticed it but stayed lower down the valley in Borce instead; Made a mental note to use it in the future though.