Day 9: Washed up in Braemar

I woke up. It was raining. I went back to sleep. I woke up again. It was still raining. I could go on.

As my brain came to I realised that I had to spend all day in Braemar. I fleetingly considered pushing on in the afternoon, but as the weather was so bad there was really nowhere that I really wanted to go.

We made our way to the Old Bakery after buying the Guardian. We joined Hump who was already installed and reading his own copy of the Guardian. Two stories dominated all of the newspapers, the split up of Peter Andre and Jordan (apologies to those overseas readers who are lucky to be completely ignorant about the affairs of these two) and the MPs expenses scandal. (If you are reading this in 2012 the Daily Telegraph is probably still printing the revelations.) As the Challenge's resident anarchist Humph was having a great time. Humphrey impressed me a great deal by ordering the 12 item breakfast two days running (although it could have been three days running). As the rest of us gathered, menu choices were a little more modest. I don't remember any additional side orders of chocolate cake. Even with the free coffee given to Challengers there was only so long that we could hang out there.

Next stop was Braemar Mountain Sports. Here I was able to dump my Sealskinz gloves (see gear report) and buy a decent replacement pair of gloves. This is a great gear shop. I was tempted to buy replacements for my poles, which had been bent in some peat bog other. But I resisted.

Then the day was brightened up by the appearance of 'Weird' Darren Christie. Darren was strolling into town in quite the most bizarre hiking outfit that I'd ever see. He was wearing knee length swimming trunks over footless tights, all topped off with a pair of fluorescent, lime green crocs. Quite a site. Who says style is dead. There was some talk about the number of withdrawals from the event. "Slackers, slackers" screamed Darren, no doubt overjoyed by not being airlifted out this year !!!

Darren is well on his way to being a Challenge legend. He has recently become the secretary of the Backpackers Club. I don't know whether there's a connection here and whether this kind of apparel is standard issue in the BPC. But I'm thinking twice about joining! Why didn't I take a photograph?

As for the rest of the day I can't remember that much about it but I guess we spent most of the day in the Fife Arms. I do remember that the rain lashed down all day. One mystery was solved though. As the day went on we heard more and more about Mar Lodge. Apparently the hospitality was wonderful with the staff even driving into the village to pick up alcoholic supplies for the evening. It struck me that Braemar was much quieter than usual. I wasn't surprised. In this weather I'd have been happy to stay at Mar Lodge. Rumours were going around that next year the prices would go up but if they don't then I think Mar Lodge is going to relive Braemar of quite a few of its Challengers.

After a second evening meal at the Hungry Highlander it was all up the hill to the Moorfield Hotel who, for the second year running, had organised a marquee and a performance by Braemar's Bingo Wings band, slogan:

Braemar's Best Rock and Roll Band; Braemar's Only Rock and Roll Band.

The Moorfield is well on its way to becoming the Braemar Challenge bar of choice, at least in the evening. It would be nice to think that the Fife Arms would fight back, but there seems to be no sign of it. The good thing about the Moorfield is that it offers choices. You could sit in the bar or cat outside. Or you could go to the Marquee, drink great beer and listen to the band. Some folks appeared from Mar Lodge.

Bingo Wings are quite something, a band of forty and fifty somethings who play their rock and roll in a punk, influenced style and cover the likes of The Clash and Neil Young. Ten out of ten for effort lads (and gals as the drummer was a lady). To be fair, the guitarist was probably younger than 40 and was pretty good. I guess Bingo Wings don't play live that often. But these Scottish nights are long. Lots of time to practice those solos in front of the telly. Boy did he have a lot of FX pedals.

We sloped off early at about 10.00. We had walking to do tomorrow and we'd been well past our bed time again.

We'd had almost two days in Braemar and it was too much really, even allowing for the weather. I like the way that the locals have prepared better for the Challenge and the way they look after us better. But next time I think I might head for Ballater.

The weather forecast didn't offer much hope for the next few days. It looked as if we would be taking inspiration from the ducks that waddle around the campsite; we would be paddling our way to Tarfside.

Braemar is a positive little metropolis. There are good cafés, lots of B&Bs and a very good Youth Hostel. Booking is advised.

I always stay at the campsite which is pretty comfortable. Watch out for the killer ducks.

Bramaer not only has its own Rock and Roll band, it has its own website:

http://www.braemarscotland.co.uk/