Day 1: Torridon to Achnashellach

We were all up early and ate a hearty breakfast before we gathered ourselves for the start of the Challenge. Rain had continued to fall throughout the evening. Tom enquired about our route. It was likely, he said quietly, that there would be snow on the Bealach na Lice. The rain finally let up as we were preparing to leave allowing us the luxury of taking one or two 'team' photos.

Tom deposited us as the Torridon Youth Hostel, the sign out point for the Torridon start. Very quickly we met a number of people we knew. Shirley was there as was John Manning, outdoor writer and ex-Deputy Editor of TGO magazine. Soon we were joined by both Colin and Challenge wit and bon vivant Alan Slowman. Colin had met Alan at the Torridon hotel the evening before. They had clearly had a good night, so much so that Colin had forsaken his tarp for a comfortable night in the hotel.

The talk was of the weather and the forecast for the coming day. Colin has crossed from Strathcarron in terrible weather. Another Challenger who'd had the same idea had fallen and badly bruised his face. Colin and Alan were adamant that this was not a day to go up high. It did strike me that their reluctance might have been something to do with the evening before, but all of us agreed that there was no point in taking risks. Winds of 70 mph or more were forecast.

A line of walker eventually left the Youth Hostel, most of us rejecting even our foul weather walking routes. We simply walked for five or six miles down the main road before taking the Coulin Pass track down to Achnashellach. This change of heart did provide one major logistical problem for Alan. A few weeks before fellow Challenger Martin Banfield has been walking in these parts and had buried a bottle of whisky for Al to retrieve on day one. It looked as if the whiskey would have to be left in the hills until Caburn Chamberlain announced that he was going to risk it up high. Al saw his chance. Caburn was presented with a series of instructions, from Martin, as to how to retrieve the whiskey. Caburn accepted his new mission in good spirits, but I think that few of us thought we would ever see him again — let alone the whiskey!

A long bash down a tarmac road was not what I'd envisaged as the start to the walk. Still, the company was good. As so often with the Challenge there was an unexpected bonus in having to take this walk. The Coulin Pass walk was very beautiful despite it being on non of our primary routes. Lakes sparkled in the reluctant sun. Secluded farmhouses had been constructed so as to ensure stunning views from 360 degrees. The weather cleared a little and the high hills looked marvelous, standing out in the crisp, clear air and set off with a perfect sprinkling of snow on the tops.

After a gentle day's walk we came to the top of the Coulin Pass and took the pony track down to Achnashellach/Craig and Gerry's Hostel. Everything under-foot was pretty waterlogged. We contemplated the life of the ponies that must have come this way; they must have been web footed. The track is not marked on the map (causing my vetters some confusion) but a good sign can't be missed and cuts off a kilometer or so of tarmac at the bottom. This path has some history. Ian Shiel had told me that the track was used , " ... by James Hogg, The Ettrick Shepherd on his highland trek".

Most of us ended up heading for Gerry's Hostel at Craig/Achnashellach. Gerry's is something of a legend amongst walkers in this part of the world, indeed I'd changed our route so that we might stay there. Stories abound of great eccentricity, of draconian hostel rules, of spot inspections, of skimpy dressing gowns and nearly nude appearances.

In the event a greater number than had planned strolled to Gerry's. Now the afternoon sun was out and everything looked very pleasant. After an hour or so wait outside Gerry appeared. He seemed little daunted at so many people all arriving at the same time, all of whom seemed to know each other well. We all crammed into the dormitories and as evening passed more and more folks seemed to crammed into the hostel.

The hostel is a pretty comfortable place in which to spend an evening. The kitchen was a mish mash of equipment of various vintages but everything worked well. We settled down in the parlour while Gerry lit one of his special fires. Stories of Gerry's fires had been flashing all over the internet during the planning phase. Ian Gillies warned that we were not to touch the fire as 'the major' would take a dim view of things; now we could see why. I don't think I've ever seen such an ingenious, incendiary, construction. Shirley decided to chat Gerry up and he was so enamored by this that she was allowed to poke and prod the fire with the official poker. We were all in awe.

The highlight of the evening was a sudden and dramatic appearance by Caburn who had managed (against great odds) to retrieve Alan's whiskey. There were great celebrations as Al cracked open the bottle. To this Al added the Platypus in his rucksack that was packed with red wine. Some other walkers then donated yet more wine. Al has that kind of effect. Alcohol just flows. I'm not sure how it does, all I know is that he does.

Gerry's hostel is a pretty good place to stay. Gerry himself was quite hospitable. He's been running this hostel for 43 years. Rumour has it that he was a railway worker who managed to buy a couple of railway cottages and turn them into the hostel. One thing though. Gerry's 43 years have not helped him understand the local terrain. We were studying the maps for the next day and wondering about the state of various river crossings. I asked Gerry which ones were best. "I know nothing of map reading" he replied. He obviously didn't.

Gerry's mattresses were very comfortable and we all settled down for a good night — at least we did in our dorm as we didn't have the snorer with us.

OS Sheet 25

James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Hogg

Gerry's Hostel at Craig/Achnashellach — the oldest independent hostel in Scotland.

http://www.gerryshostel-achnashellach.co.uk/#_jmp0